How can you dramatically improve your success rate hunting whitetail deer? In this podcast episode I share how I went from a 0% success rate to 83%. And no, you do not need to spend a bunch of money or have hundreds of acres of private land. It’s all about strategy and changing the way you think about hunting.

When I began hunting deer, I had no idea what I was doing. Like most people I heard what worked for others, received some tribal knowledge, watched some videos, read some articles and just assumed if I did those things it would work. I was very wrong. The issue is a lot of the hunting information I received was just plain not true, it was laced with myths, misinformation, and popular hearsay. What was true, was often only applicable to very specific situations and circumstances, which were very different from my own circumstance.

Don’t get me wrong, I gained some ground by consuming and practicing the conventional wisdom I received. I started taking some deer. But the breakthrough happened when I stopped focusing on what other people said worked for them and started focusing on the deer, what they were doing, and when.

Doing this however put me in a very difficult position. I liked to hunt a certain way, in a certain place, at a certain time of day, and at a certain part of the season. The deer however did not conform at all to my preferences. I had to completely dismantle the way I hunted, break all my traditions, change all my comfy habits, and do new and uncomfortable things to align with when and where the deer were around. It was mentally difficult to make those changes, and most hunters never do.

But when I decided to stop hunting the way I wanted to hunt and start hunting according to the deer patterns and preferred locations, I began to experience tremendous results. To the level where we shot 5 bucks in 6 hunts. I do not mean six years, but six times sitting in the woods. Listen to the entire podcast episode to get the details and how to apply this to your deer hunting.

Rain may have little effect on deer movement, or it may have drastic impact. If you can determine how the weather will impact hunting, you can develop a strategy for how and when to hunt whitetails when it’s raining. Can you hunt deer effectively in the rain? The answer is both yes and no, depending on the circumstances. 

Deer need to eat, mate, and move, period. They can only sit for so long and do not like to miss meals. So while light to moderate rain may impact their movement briefly, they will eventually shrug it off and begin returning to their normal patterns if it continues for any period of time. Severe weather is another story though.

When the weather turns very bad with heavy rain, thunder, gale force winds, blizzard conditions, they will usually sit and wait it out. This type of weather is rarely sustained for very long and once the weather breaks the deer will be up and moving again, perhaps more so than usual trying to find food to make up for missed meals.

So hunting light to moderate rain can be fruitful, particularly if that weather has continued for a few days and the deer have normalized their routines based on it. But really bad weather is not worth hunting in. EXCEPT for possibly hunting the ending fringe of that weather so you can be in the woods still and ready for when the weather breaks and deer movement ramps up.

The gear that you hunt with and the length of time you spend hunting in the rain are also major factors. If your gear is reasonable, you spend short stints in the woods, and you hunt advantageous times of day or before/after incoming fronts, then you can be very effective hunting whitetails in the rain.

I have had significant success hunting both does and bucks on rainy days. But the story is always the same, even after being in the woods for 12 or more hours, deer move very little during severe weather and are quick to get up when the sky clears.

Oftentimes a hunting blind is both cheaper and more comfortable than quality rain gear and I recommend that option when practical. But you can get away with poor quality rain gear and an umbrella if your plan is to wait for the weather to break in order to take down the umbrella and hunt afterwards.

The biggest issue people tend to have with rain gear is sweating and getting soaked over time because even Gore-Tex does not breathe when one side of it is soaking wet. All of the pores in the fabric become saturated and vapor cannot pass through. So, hunting in the rain for long periods of time with a rainsuit on is not a great idea. This makes using a blind even better because you do not need to worry about getting wet. I tend to keep one or two blinds up all season as options for wet days for this very reason.

The bottom line is if hunting in the rain isn’t fun for you, then don’t do it. If you are not enjoying the hunt, then save it for a day when you can enjoy it. Listen to this entire podcast episode to learn more.

 

 

While a duck hunting boat can provide a number of significant benefits, it can become easy to fantasize that such a purchase will change your life or turn you into a different person and your hunting will never be the same. The reality is the pros and cons of a duck boat are almost equal. You really need to weigh your situation to see if anything tips the scales towards or against you getting a duck boat.

How do you hunt geese in the early season, before the migration begins? On this episode I share three strategies for early pre-migration goose hunting and how you can find success. Special thanks to Tetra Hearing for sponsoring this episode. Get you Free 2-Year Service Plan. Just add this Service Plan to your cart when purchasing a Tetra Hearing device and use this code at checkout to get the service plan for free: NEWHUNTERSGUIDE

Hunting geese in the early season often requires different strategies depending on where you live and when things begin to move in your area. In the summer, geese may not travel much. They may stick to one area and can be harder to find and even harder to setup on. But if you adjust your strategies, you can find them and bring them home.

This may be called the resident goose season, but sometimes a term is used that denotes pest control depending on the area. In some places, even parks or golf courses will let hunters in during specified hours to clean out the geese. This is often not hunting, and while it’s nothing to be ashamed of, it’s not what I am referring to in this episode. I am talking about wild wary geese in their natural habitat, not birds that will eat out of your hand at the park. Harvesting meat to help parks and golf courses is fine, needed even. But that isn’t what I’m talking about today.

Land hunting. Hunting geese on land is maybe the most straight forward in the early season, but finding the birds is the difficult part. They may travel or fly little or not at all this time of year, and they may be quieter. So, it may take some scouting and getting special permissions to be able to reach them.

Water hunting. This may be the hardest way to hunt geese in the early season because their water habits can be so different compared to the rest of the year. They may travel little or none at all and can be more difficult to setup on, even requiring stealth to setup your decoys depending on what they are doing in your area.

Jump hunting. The early season may be the best time of year to jump hunt geese because they are more stationery and fly less and there is more cover to use to your advantage. Windy days are best to conceal your motion and cover your sound. You may want to employ some unorthodox techniques like using tight chokes with TSS ammo to get head/neck shots from afar, similar to turkey hunting.

Listen to the entire podcast episode to learn how to start hunting geese in the early pre-migration season.

Can you age deer that are walking in front of you while hunting? How do you age deer that are up on the move or down on the ground? On this episode I tackle these questions, but I also address the much larger question of SHOULD YOU try to age deer at all.

Trying to age deer has been picking up speed and gaining momentum as of late. People want to know how old their deer are and use that information to affect their decision to shoot or pass in favor of another opportunity at that deer next year. There are three things that are very wrong with this line of thinking.

First, deer biologists tend to have a less than 20% accuracy rating when it comes to aging deer. If the pros can’t do it well, hunters don’t stand much of a chance. After year two, this becomes very difficult, to the point of it not even being worth trying to get an exact number of years for a deer living or dead.

Second, the age of deer is just one more mostly irrelevant variable that causes hunters to overanalyze a situation, likely causing more missed opportunities due to analysis paralysis. Hunters need to evaluate a very short list of variables before taking a shot, such as, is the deer legal, is it large enough to be worth what it costs to butcher it, is it a deer I would like to shoot, is it close enough and at a feasible angle. Then they need to setup and take a shot before they lose their opportunity.

Third, the idea of getting another shot at the deer in the future is an utter fallacy in all but some fantasy land states and enormous ranches. You must assume the deer will be shot by someone else by the end of the day, and you must be ok with that, knowing you want and can reasonably expect to harvest a deer that is better. If you feel bad when you find out another hunter shot the deer that evening because you hoped to shoot it next year, you are out of touch with reality and are not weighing your opportunities effectively.

So, the bottom line is, there are some ways to judge whether or not a deer is mature and viable for shooting that I discuss in the podcast episode. However, generally speaking, the age of the deer does not matter and should not even be thought about. Instead focus on the more important points and make fast decisive decisions that provide you with the time and confidence to take an action you will be happy about after the fact.

Should you be using a tree saddle? Is it really better than hunting out of a deer stand? On this episode I talk about the pros and cons of tree saddles and address the specific situations where tree saddles are indeed the best option, when they are an equal option, and when they are not the best option. 

Tree saddles provide unique flexibility and functionality compared to climbing stands and sometimes hang on stands. They enable people to hunt new locations and single attempt locations easier than any other in-tree option.  This is a big benefit to public land hunters and some private land hunters with a lot of acres available. They are both comfortable and light weight, enabling you to cover a lot of distance much easier than with other options.

This has caused tree saddles to gain a lot of popularity and use among celebrity hunters. However, they are not always the best option for hunting in a tree. In fact, usually they are not. Most hunters simply do not hunt like this. Most tree born hunters spend a lot of time scouting, studying how deer use an area, improving the area for deer movement, adding attractions, and picking a very strategic tree that they hope to use for years, maybe even generations to come. Tree saddles do not shine in this situation, in fact they take more work and effort than a long-term dedicated stand.

So, deer hunters with perennial spots and stand locations do not gain anything from tree saddles, generally speaking. The hunters that do benefit are the ones going deep into public land or hard to access private land, those changing spots mid-season, or perhaps just hunting a place once. This is not an insignificant number of hunters, but looking at the big picture, the majority of hunters gain nothing from saddles. But those who do benefit greatly tend to be very vocal and hold some of the loudest microphones in the industry.

So never accept the next hunting fad without evaluating the merits, especially when all the famous people jump quickly on the bandwagon. Yes, saddles are outstanding for some hunters, but for many they are not the best tool for the job. Are they right for you?

Listen to this whole podcast episode to hear about their pros and cons and when they may be a good fit for you and your hunting situation.

How can you start hunting deer from scratch? In this overview episode I take you from wanting to hunt, all the way to how to cook your meat. This is a beginner’s overview of the entire process, but I do point you to all of the in-depth resources you need to be successful!

The first and biggest thing you need to start hunting is a desire to do it. You need to have some level of push to jump in and keep on going until you are successful. Someone else wanting you to hunt isn’t enough. You need to want to do it yourself, at least to some extent. Hopefully that desire will grow the further you get.

Then you need to take your hunters safety course. This will NOT teach you how to hunt whitetail deer or anything else. It will teach you how to be safe in the woods. I recommend doing this live and in person so you can meet people and potentially build relationships and do some networking. This will also help ensure you finish the class, because it can be easy to not finish the online course. After this you need to buy your first hunting license, decide what you are going to hunt first, and get your tags for does or whatever else. 

Then comes the expensive part. You need to get a gun, gear, and anything else you will need to hunt deer. I have done lots of podcast episodes on this subject, but in short, I recommend you focus on using whatever you have, can borrow, or buy cheap to get started. You need to hunt a little bit before you are able to determine what kind of gear is a good match for you and your style, and the average weather.

The cheaper you can get started the better it will be financially for you in the long run. Else you may spend a lot of money buying expensive gear that you end up not liking because you didn’t know what you were doing when you bought it.

Then you need to find a place to hunt, either on public or private land, and begin scouting to find a good spot sit and hunt. I recommend you pick out two or three good spots, so you are able to hunt different wind directions, and in case one of the spots has no deer activity come the season, or in case someone else gets there first and takes your spot.

Then you need to be ready to field dress the deer when you do get one and have a plan to butcher and mount the deer if you want to do that. For your first year or couple of years I recommend you find a good butcher to take the deer to. Learning to process your own deer while also learning all these other things can be a lot of work and it’s not something I think you need to pile on your first year.

Check out all my deer hunting podcast episodes to go deeper in all these areas. You can also find more info in this in-depth article I wrote: How To Start Hunting As An Adult.

Should you pay for a hunting guide, or should they be avoided like the plague? There are legitimate hunting guides and there are scammers, just as in any profession. And just like anything else, there are good and bad times to pay for services. On this episode I help you understand when it is a good idea to pay for a guide and how to get the most out of the experience. 

Hunting guides and outfitters are not the same thing. An outfitter may be a hunting guide, or may supply a guide, but the outfitters’ role is much broader. They help furnish everything you need for a hunting trip from transportation to lodging, food, entertainment, gear, etc. A guide is someone who takes you into the woods, leveraging their expertise and scouting to help find you game.

Guides provide a valued service, and it’s an honorable profession. But you will always want to try and vet a potential guide before employing them. Look for reviews, contact past customers, search their name and credentials, do anything you can to verify their legitimacy, or at least check to see if serious complaints have been lodged against them.

There are two main times when getting a guide is a good use of resources.

The first is educational purposes. If you are trying to learn how to hunt something new, somewhere new, or someway new, then a guide may be the fastest way to get a crash course in how to do it right. Watch them, take mental notes, ask questions, analyze everything. Do all that you can to take in as much as possible. Your goal is to learn from a master how it is done under these circumstances.

The second big time is for unique experiences. If you have a once in a lifetime or once in a blue moon opportunity to go somewhere really fun or hunt something really unique, a guide can help you maximize the enjoyment of that opportunity. It’s not so much about learning because you aren’t planning to do it again, or often enough to be able to master it, you are just out to have fun. It is also not about taking a large set of antlers that you can show everyone you ever meet for the rest of your life and tell them how amazing of a hunter you are. You boasting about your accomplishments that are the fruit of a guide’s skills is a bit slimy, and not a great reason to get a guide.

Listen to the whole podcast episode to hear all the juicy details!

Ticks are a common enemy almost all hunters face. Thankfully because of this there are numerous ways to fight them. On this episode I talk about five strategies to help you win the battle against ticks.

No one wants to encounter ticks in the woods, there isn’t a good thing to say about them. They are small sneaky blood sucking bugs that are hard to detect, and worst of all they can carry serious disease. First things first, if you get bit by a tick that has been attached for any length of time seek medical advice. If you have any symptoms of tick-borne illness, whether you have evidence of a bite or not, seek immediate medical attention. Often times tick-borne illnesses can be effectively treated if caught early. The more time that passes the harder it may be to help.

Fighting ticks happens on three major levels, chemically, materially, and visually. The first has become very popular. There are many sprays that can be used to repel ticks. Some strong tick sprays can only be sprayed onto clothing because of how harsh they are while others can be sprayed on clothing or skin. The harsher the chemicals the better things typically are at killing ticks, sometimes when they make contact with the garment. However, we are also alive and will be wearing these chemically treated garments, so I am a little bit weary of that.

The milder sprays can be used on skin and clothing work fairly well at repelling ticks, but they are not generally able to kill them on contact. However, they may be a little safer for the wearers. The main thing to consider is there are pros and cons for each approach and product. The most effective products smell strongly and are highly toxic. You need to balance this with how often you will use repellants and if you want to regularly engage with these kinds of chemicals. And there are all natural approaches and oils people use to combat ticks.

There is also tick repellant clothing. Garments that ticks cannot penetrate if they were to try and dig through them, and garments that have repellents built into the materials or are in some way treated with them. There is a lot to like about this approach but for every strong pro there is also a considerable con to be weighed as well, such as cost, longevity, and how comprehensive the protection really is. 

In this podcast episode I talk about five ways to combat ticks and stay safe while you hunt.

 

A squib is an underpowered bullet that is unable to make it out of the barrel of a gun and gets stuck partway through. Numerous things can cause it, but if its caught and dealt with promptly, a squib can be easily repaired. But if not dealt with, it can be devastating and terribly unsafe. Just like with firearms, in life there many things we can do to prevent hazardous situations and prevent them from becoming devastating when they do occur. 

Modern ammo has made squib loads very rare. But there is a growing trend of underloading rifle or handgun ammo far below its maximum potential in order to use it for hunting smaller game. This can be a reasonable practice but doing so reduces the margin of error available. If a load is under powered, it is much easier for any small things to further reduce its power and cause a squib. If something causes you to load too little powder, or you accidentally use the wrong powder, or a wrong primer is used, or perhaps a primer damaged by moisture, etc., you could more easily have a squib.

A full powered load may have enough margin to overcome some of these issues, but a lightly powered one may not. In life we have alot of people who are underpowered, not operating at their full ability and potential. They do just enough to get by, to make it through, and then when even something small happens to compromise their momentum they dip below the minimum threshold and can experience major issues like losing a job, relationship, or possession. 

They do just enough work to keep from getting fired, but then something in life throws them through a loop and their performance dips and they cross below the line and lose the job. Then they have to deal with the life issue, and the lost job, because they are operating with too little margin, with too little focus and foresight, too far below their full potential. 

Everyone will experience some challenges in life, but operating at your full ability level will provide you with momentum that enables to completely miss some challenges, while recovering faster from other. And if/when something major does come up, you can often avoid compounding it with other issues of things that were on the brink of exploding and just got pushed over the edge.

Listen to this entire podcast episode to learn about how to not be a squib in life, and how to better recover yourself when squib situations come to you.