The first thing most people learn about turkey hunting is you have to shoot the birds in the head. But is that the whole story? On this episode I kick the tires on that assumption with some historical information and common sense to reveal the bigger picture.
Yes, of course, a head shot with modern turkey ammo and a good, tested choke is the best way to kill a gobbler. But it is not the only way, nor the only ethical way to do the job.
Since shotguns were invented, up until about the 1970s, shooting turkeys in the head was only practical at very close range. Hunters relied on big shotguns with high powered loads to deliver body shots. And of course, rifles were more commonly uses as well.
There are situations where body shots with the right shells can be very effective. But body shots should never be taken over a head shot, for 5 reasons I list in the episode.However, sometimes a body shot is the only shot presented.
Listen to the episode to hear the case for and against ONLY shooting turkeys in the head.
There is no ammo more effective for turkey hunting than tungsten shot. There is also nothing more expensive… On this episode I equip you with the knowledge you need to make informed decisions about the best ammo for you and your circumstances.
Learning to hunt solo as an adult is a big challenge, but you can do it and have a blast too! I started hunting from a standing start at about age 30 and learned from scratch without hardly any support, help, or mentors. I learned through trial and error, much research and reading, lots of failure and eventually great success.
Everything I learned about how to start hunting as an adult I instilled intoThe New Hunters Guidepodcast. Here are 15 steps to help you get started.
1) New Hunter Safety and Education
The first thing you need is to get new hunters safety training so you can get your first hunting license. Nothing is more important than safety! A little searching online should reveal the process and system in your state. Usually this amounts to something like a one day class, onsite or online, where you can learn about hunting and firearms safety. There is usually a test and once you pass you are able to buy your first license. Unfortunately these programs do little to teach you about how to really hunt and be successful. So I cover that in detail in mypodcast.
2) Hunting Seasons and Licenses
Next you need to decide what you would like to hunt. Most beginners start hunting with deer, and that is a great place to jump in. But it may be easier to start hunting small game, crows, doves, or woodchucks. If you are going solo then waterfowl hunting, uplands birds, and turkeys are going to be harder places to start that take more work, skills, gear, and know how to be successful, but you can do it!
Once you have identified the game you want to pursue, you need to find out when the hunting season is and buy the licenses and tags you need to hunt and take that game. Be sure to thoroughly read through your hunting manual to learn all of the local rules and regulations of what you can and cannot do. If you are hunting deer, and it is possible for you to buy a doe tag then DO IT! You will want the flexibility to have options when you are hunting.
3) How To Find A Place To Hunt On Private Land
It is possible that you know someone who has some land who will give you permission to hunt there. But you likely will not know who those people are because you never paid much attention to who has land before. I recommend exploring this route, hunting on private land has a lot of advantages over public land, even if it is only a handful of acres.
As few as 5-10 acres can be enough to hunt some game, like deer. If it is an option for you, then consider it. Ask around, talk to family and friends, and pay close attention. You can hunt very effectively on small properties, check out this article I did on the subject: How To Hunt Deer On Small Properties.
Unfortunately, it will be much harder to get permission to hunt on someone’s property if you do not have a relationship with that person. So, explore your network first.
4) How To Find A Place To Hunt On Public Land
Most people in the U.S. have good public land options within 1-2 hours of their home. Finding these can be tough though. I recommend paying the $30 a year for the OnX Hunt app that lets you see every public and private land parcel in your state and where the boarders are. This makes it easy to find almost every acre of public land and figure out access points as well as make notes, leave waypoints and A LOT more.
OnX Hunt is the only hunting app that I pay for, and year after year I happily renew my subscription. These days it also shows things like wind direction and weather. I did a full review on that app along with another leading map app here: onX Hunt vs. HuntWise Review | Which Hunting Map App Is The Best.
5) Scouting 101
Once you have found a potential property to hunt on, public or private, you must scout it. Scouting answers two big questions.
Are there deer or whatever game you are searching for on this property?
Where could you setup and hunt from on the land?
Almost never can you just walk onto a brand new piece of property in the dark and find a good place to hunt from. You need to go there in advance. If you are scouting deer then the #1 thing you are looking for as a new hunter are deer tracks. After that you are looking for droppings, rubs, and scrapes. Check out these10-ish podcast episodeson scouting for deer hunting.
Once you have found signs of deer or whatever you are hunting then you can look for a place to hunt from. This is where you will stealthily walk to during the season to hunt from. This could be a tree stand, a ground blind, or just a bucket against a tree. Check out the podcast episodes for way more info on what to do. The bottom line is this, find where the animals are likely to walk, and find a good place to hide where you can see them but it’s tough for them to see you.
6) You First Set of Hunting Gear
The best gear to start with is likely the gear you already have. Inventory everything you have that could possibly work for hunting. Do not worry about camouflage right now. Anything black, brown or dark green is fine to start with. Focus on the 2 big things that are needed to keep you warm, layers and barriers.
Layers trap warmth in, barriers keep wind and weather out. You will need some reasonable footwear to keep your feet warm and dry, I like getting aneoprene rubber hunting boot to keep you warm and dry, these Red Heads tend to go on sale for as low as $35 at times. But you will never regret investing in quality footwear whether it is this season or down the road.
You also need some base layers that are NOT COTTON. You can wear cotton layers if needed when you get started but it makes lousy base layers because it does not insulate when wet at all. They work great until you work up a sweat. You can get started with something like theseWindchaser Base Layerswhich sell for around $20 for a full set. Can you get better stuff. YES. But for your first season, these or something equally cheap will get you in the woods.
I think First Lite has about the bestmerino wool base layerson the market but they are expensive. Cabela’sE.C.W.C.S. base layersare a great middle of the road layer with a balance between performance and cost. But for your first season, spend $20 and get in the woods already.
You need some warm wool socks, but you can get buy on whatever you find cheap. Gloves, boots and lots of other gear can be augmented with somedisposable heat packs. Spend $7 on these and make up for hundreds of dollars in high end gear that you can buy down the road.
If you are buying gear, do not rule out discount stores, thrift stores, yard sales, and the like. I have gotten some amazing and pricey gear for pennies. I mean $400 coats and bibs for $20. You can find amazing deals sometimes. But you can also find cheap gear for cheap prices, and that can be just as good for a new hunter.
7) Firearms for New Hunters
I have long said that the best first gun for a new hunter is the one you already have, can easily borrow, or can cheaply buy used. Here is the idea, until you have done some hunting, you have no idea what guns, features, or specifications best complement your hunting style. You need to hunt first, before you invest money in firearms, or archery equipment. Whatever you can get that will do the job is the best thing to start with.
Hunt with a less than ideal gun, or a loner for the first season. And then once you have some experience and a little more budget, you’ll be better equipped to buy something better that will be a good fit for YOU. Check and see what is legal to use in your state, chances are if it is legal, it will do the job well enough. Additional info is availablein this episode.
8) How to Pick Your Ammunition
When it comes to deer hunting, just about any expanding projectile ammo is going to do the job on a deer at regular ranges. If only it were that simple though, there are so many options that it can be confusing. I recommend you start with a box of the cheap stuff, get two boxes actually. One and a half boxes for target practice, and 5-10 rounds for hunting.
Practice at the range at different distances and different shooting positions. Learn how far you can comfortable shoot standing up, kneeling, and from a supported position while still hitting a 6” target consistently. Next season you can get the more expensive ammo. When trying to take a deer, the best shot is the double lung shot. The simplest way to describe that is to aim about midway up the deer, just an inch behind the front shoulder. If you get a pass through shot on both lungs, the deer will be unconscious and pain free in seconds. It is the most ethical shot and provides the most consistently humane results.
9) Your First Blaze Orange Gear
You likely will need an orange vest and hat to hunt deer and lots of other things. You can start with asuper cheap hunting vest. And then perhaps down the road you can upgrade to something that is anicer more functional vest. I do not recommend you buy a big or expensive blaze orange coat, because you will invariably end up hunting things that you do not want orange for. So an orange vest lets you use the same coat or outerwear to hunt anything you like, you just add the vest and you are ready.
You also likely need an orange hat. I am a big fan of acheap orange camo beanie. You can wear this alone, or eventually wear it over top of a better hat you may acquire. I like orange camo because the little bit of pattern breaks up your outline. Make sure it’s legal in your area.
10) Game Calls
If you are new to hunting gear, the best call you can use is to just be quiet. Don’t bother buying anything, you are likely to do more to foil a hunt than help it by blowing calls. You need some experience, practice, and learning to get to a point where a call may help. After hunting for quite a while, I take a grunt call into the woods but I still do not think I could tell you that it ever the made a difference on a hunt yet.
Being still and quiet are the best things a new hunter can do. Save the money and time for other things your first couple seasons. Now if you are hunting turkey’s you are going to need to buy a call. I think a box call or a slate call are the best options for a beginner to learn on.
11) Beginners Hunting Tactics and Strategy
The sky is the limit here, but the simplest and easiest way for a new hunter to get started is to find a deer trail and look for a good place to hide. Tree stands and ground blinds have a lot of advantages but they also add cost and complexity to what can be a very expensive first season. I recommend you find some cover on the uphill side and sit with your back against a big large tree. Then you sit looking downhill at the deer trail. This gives you some advantages in hunting and helps keep you a little safer as well.
You can find pretty much everything you could want from a beginners standpoint on deer hunting strategy in mydeer hunting podcast archives. If you are hunting other game just look at the Show Categories in the menu and find the game you are looking for.
12) Wind, Snacks, and Bathroom Breaks
One of the biggest things that can ruin a good hunt is if the wind blows your scent to the deer you are trying to ambush. You always want the wind to blow past you into an area that you do not expect the deer to be in. So if you are facing a trail, you want the wind in your face. Snacks can range from fun to critical depending on how long you are in the woods but whatever you bring to eat will also create more smells making it that much more important to be mindful of the wind.
Likewise there are many myths about relieving yourself in the woods, but the truth is that every animal pees in the woods and within minutes any odors that are unique to humans break down or at least become unthreatening to deer. So you can do whatever you need to in the woods without much concern.
13) Field Dressing
You will take a deer, it may not be on your first couple hunts, but it could very well be. So you need to prepare for success. Study how to field the animal you are hunting. Watch videos, and be ready for it. You will be glad you did! It only takes 5-10 minutes to field dress a deer, but avoiding a few common blunders can make the process so much easier, cleaner, and more pleasant. Study a little, you will thank me. Here is apodcast episode with videoson how to do it.
A sharp pocket knife or kitchen knife is the only tool you need. But someelbow length disposable glovescan make a huge difference though! For $10 you can get 10 pairs. Definitely worth it. The golden rule for field dressing is recover the deer, dress it, and get it out of the woods and into refrigeration as quickly as possible, that will yield the best meat.
14) Meat Processing
Before you even walk into the woods, know where you are going to take that deer after you field dress it. Have a plan for a truck that can haul it, or put a big tarp down in the trunk of your car and do it that way. Yes, I have hauled deer in the trunk of a compact car. There is plenty of space and a 10’ x 10’ tarp keeps everything clean. You can get one at Walmart or a discount store for super cheap. I don’t leave home without one!
I recommend picking out a good deer processor for your first season or two at least. It is worth the money and lets you fully enjoy the fruits of your labor without risking you messing up the meat. Get steaks, roasts, sausage, jerky, and whatever else you processor can make out of it! Eventually you may decide you want to do it yourself, but don’t add that burden to your first season. My new butcher is so good I have lost all drive to do it myself.
15) Mounting
Mounting a whole deer head can be very expensive, somewhere around $500-$1000 is common, with the better work being on the higher end of that scale. But for around $30 you can get a greatantler plague mount kit. I use these exclusively now. The butcher gives me back the antlers still connected to the top skull plate for no extra cost,
After a little cleaning and prep I can mount the antlers in about 20 minutes, and they look great hanging on the wall. And they don’t take up a fraction of the space that a whole head does. If you do want to mount a whole head, then I recommend you start saving up for it before you even go hunting and just keep that money set aside so when do you get your deer, you do not have to write a large painful check all of a sudden.
Final Take Aways
These 15 steps are certainly not exhaustive, which is why I createdThe New Hunters Guidepodcast with over 200 episodes and counting. I have worked to diligently mentor, teach, and impart everything I can think of into these episodes to help provide you with the resource that I wish I would have had when I started hunting. And don’t forget about theYouTube Channelwhere I demonstrate, test, and show things that complement the podcast.
What is bottom line? You can do it, take your first steps toward hunting today!
Till next time. God bless you, and go get em in the woods!
George Konetes Ph.D. – Founder and Host of the New Hunters Guide.
Most people assume a hunt is over once a turkey has been spooked. Sometimes this is the case, but sometimes you can have a good chance of success if you change your tactics. On this episode I talk about strategies for hunting a gobbler after he has been spooked.
Take Aways
Turkeys are spooked throughout the day by all kinds of things.
If being spoked caused them to be quiet and hide, they would never move or gobble.
It is true that a turkey will almost never return to the place where it spotted a hunter pretending to be a turkey. So you have to change tactics.
You need to think like a turkey, not like a turkey hunter.
Do not let giving up be you default response to a spooked turkey.
Time and distance can quickly heal a turkey’s anxiety.
NEVER try to sneak up on a turkey to shoot it. That is often illegal and always unsafe.
Listen to the episode to find out how to hunt a turkey AFTER it was spooked.
If you hunt turkeys, it is only a matter of time before you run into turkey hunting marketing. The key to finding the right gear for you is to let the woods tell you what you need, not a catalog or big box store. On this episode I identify common turkey hunting marketing pitfalls, how to avoid them, and how to decide what kinds of things are truly worth your spending your hard-earned money.
Take Aways
Remember the marketer’s job is to sell products. But it is not your job to buy them.
Turkey hunting is a sport where significant innovations are few and far between.
Never assume that the latest newest thing is of any benefit to you, no matter how compelling the case or packaging.
The best thing you can do is spend more time in the woods and let that experience guide you to what you need to buy.
I remember asking the questions: Why is lead shot copper plated? Why is steel shot plated? And more recently why is bismuth and tungsten shot being plated? After years of wondering, I decided I wanted a better answer than I was finding in the marketing of most waterfowl and turkey hunting ammunition. So I began to study and I reached out to the owners of shotgun ammo manufacturing companies, professional metallurgists, and hunting ammo historians. More people answered my questions than I was expecting.
The first big question is why did they start copper plating shot? Well, long story short, about 100 years ago they were trying to find ways to keep lead shot from fusing together in high pressure loads. They eventually solved that problem with harder lead shot. But they noticed interesting performance benefits from the copper plating, so they continued doing it.
Plated Shot Improves Lubricity
The big thing that plated shot does is increase the lubricity of the shot. Just as it sounds, the platting acts as a lubricant on the shot. It lubricates the pellets against one another, against the barrel, against the air, and against the intended target.
Most shotgun shot, whether it is steel, lead, bismuth, or tungsten is not polished to a perfect mirror finish. The plating ads that finish, thus reducing the friction of the pellets. But it does even more. Copper plating, along with zinc and others have a lower dynamic coefficient of friction than say steel does. So whether you are using steel shot or firing your shot through a steel barrel, or both, the plating cuts back on friction.
So what does that do? Why does it matter?
1) Sliding Through The Choke
Less friction and more lubricity means the pellets can smoothly slide against each other as they travel through the forcing cone, barrel, and most importantly the choke tube. The choke compresses the shot, elongating the shot column trying to tighten the pattern. If the choke is too tight or shot too rough, certain materials such as steel shot in particular will crunch together instead of sliding and elongating the shot column when compressed by the choke. The stored energy of being pushed together without sliding is then released and the pellets expand immediately after leaving the barrel which ruins the pattern. That has a significant effect in both tighterturkeyhunting choke tubesand looserwaterfowl chokes.
Adding copper platting, or to a lesser degree zinc or nickel lets the pellets slide against one another instead of smashing together. The result is denser patterns at essentially all ranges.
2) Sliding Through The Air
The second thing plating does, particularly that polished finish it gives, is aid the shot as it cuts through the air. Polished copper plating slices through the wind easier than rough lead, steel, or bismuth shot. Less aerodynamic friction means the shot loses velocity slower and has more range, less drop, and more energy on the target. Because of this it can hit harder than non-plated shot, especially compared to cheaper rougher finished shot.
The big thing to remember with this is that the effect is null at the muzzle. At 10 yards it is almost meaningless, but at 40 and 50+ yards is when it makes the most difference because the effect of wind and friction has had time to work, slowing down the un-plated shot more. The big question here is how much difference does this make? More about that momentarily.
3) Sliding Through The Target
Plating also helps the shot penetrate deeper into the intended target, whether you are hunting ducks, geese, turkeys, pheasants, or any other fowl. The decreased coefficient of friction from the plating, coupled with the benefits of the mirror finish, help it slide through tissue to go deeper. This also means the shot has more energy to break through bones when it reaches them.
These three factors combined result in higher pattern density, which means more pellets on the target. Each of those pellets arrives at the target with more velocity and slide through the birds a little more easily.
The Best Metals To Plate
Plating is most effective performance wise for lead shot and bismuth because they are softer materials which can deform on impact causing more trauma when they impact bone compared to steel which is more likely to ricochet. A slicker harder steel pellet is slightly more likely deflect off of bone rather than break through it.
Plating on steel started mostly for corrosion resistance. Tall pallets of steel ammo in hot damp warehouses for months and years on end too often resulted in rusty shot reaching the customers. Plating solved this problem very well. The marketing is spun to make it sound like it is helping the hunter, so their shot doesn’t rust in the field, but that is not very likely to happen in most scenarios, it helps the manufacture and distributors more.
Tungsten is sometimes copper plated as well, with the intension of improved pattern, velocity, and penetration performance.
Why Is Steel Shot Not Copper Plated?
Sometimes it is, but zinc and nickel plating are more cost effective for adhesion to steel in order to protect against moisture. So it is cheaper to not use copper on steel. Because of this, the effects of plating on steel in terms of patterning, velocity, and penetration are less pronounced than with lead or bismuth. However, there do seem to still be some gains for zinc and nickel-plated steel against un-plated steel. But the primary motivation for doing it is the corrosion resistance.
How Much Difference Does Plated Shot Make?
This was not an easy question to get experts to answer. Thankfully, it is something that I am able to test. After doing many ballistic gel and pattern tests myself, I am convinced there is a measurable difference.
I have found pattern density to improve by 10%-30% when testing plated vs. un-plated shot. However, there are a lot of variables here, and no company that I could find makes the same shell with the only difference between plated vs. un-plated shot. So, I would have to call these results anecdotal. But plated shot seems to come out on top with every test I’ve done to date. But keep in mind, these benefits pale in comparison to making sure you gun is properly fitted to you. A well fitted shotgun will be more accurate and outperform any gains you might see from plated shot. For more, I did a full article on the subject here: How To Fit A Shotgun To You.
When it comes to ballistics gel penetration, I have found that plated shot penetrates about 5-10% deeper than un-plated shot. This is a little bit more robust testing because there are fewer variables to control for. Plating and velocity are the main ones.
I was presented with documentation showing bismuth penetration and more importantly wound trauma has been seen to be 15%+ with copper plated shot vs non plated shot. I intend to test this personally in the near future and will update this article and do a video on the results.
Is Plated Shot Worth The Extra Expense?
The big question people ask next becomes: is plated shot worth the extra cost? After all my research, I would say “it depends”. The biggest benefits of copper plated shot or any plated shot are going to be potential increase in pattern density. If you try the copper plated shot with a fewgood choke tubes and it patterns better in your gun then it is absolutely worth it. If it patterns the same, I do not think the slight increase in terminal performance is worth the significant increase in cost.
What Are The Best Plated Shells?
I haven’t tested them all, but here are my favorite shells per category of all the ones I have tested.
Be sure to listen toThe New Hunters Guide Podcast,andcheck us out on YouTube. If you want to learn more about hunting, check out the different hunting areas that my podcast covers, there are over 200 episodes, all organized by topic:
George Konetes Ph.D. – Founder and Host of the New Hunters Guide.
The New Hunters Guide is simply what George wishes he would have had when learning how to hunt; a single place to get practical hands on knowledge about different kinds of hunting, gear, strategy, and tips that can improve your comfort and fun factor in the woods.
Can the action of a shotgun actually do something to reduce the recoil? This is a common question asked by all kinds of shotgun users from new hunters to seasoned pros. I have searched the internet over trying to find a good answer for this question and I was unsatisfied with what I found. That is when I realized I was asking the wrong question and I was looking for information in the wrong places.
The right question is this: Can a semi-automatic shotgun reduce feltrecoil?
What Is Felt Recoil?
Nothing can reduce true recoil, it is a function of payload, velocity, and powder charge. But felt recoil, or perceived recoil is another thing. This is the recoil force that the shooter experiences. This can be reduced by a great number of things, but is the action of a shotgun one of them? Well, instead of endlessly combing the depths of the internet looking for an answer, I decided to ask the manufacturers of the shotguns themselves to see what they had to say. And their responses were surprising.
When it comes to recoil energy, the bigger the payload and the faster it leaves the gun, the higher the recoil. This is the equal and opposite reaction to the charge being fired out of the barrel. This energy travels through the frame of the shotgun, into the stock and then into your shoulder and cheek. After a certain level, that force is enough to cause pain and eventually tissue damage in your body.
Shells with more shot and/or more velocity create more recoil and that recoil has to go somewhere. And it will go somewhere, into the shooter. BUT what happens to that energy along the way will change its effect on the shooter. Keep in mind that shotgun fit can also plays a part here. A well fitted shotgun will help more evenly distribute recoil which mitigates some of the perceived force and discomfort. For more on that, I did a full article here: How To Fit A Shotgun To You.
Slower Recoil Is Less Damaging Recoil
One of the biggest variables in the equation of felt recoil is the weight of the shotgun. A gun with more mass resists the backward push of the recoil more. A heavier shotgun cannot absorb recoil, but rather it slows it down. The energy has to first accelerate the shotgun and then push it into your shoulder. If the shotgun is heavier then it moves slower. The same amount of force exists but the speed the shotgun is propelled into your shoulder is slowed down, ever so slightly, and then hits your shoulder more like a firm push than a sharp crack. The shark crack causes pain and damage, the firm push does not.
Think about this example. If a pickup truck hit you doing 30 mph, the effect on your body would be devastating. But if a much heavier tractor trailer hit you at 3 mph it would do you little to no harm. Both trucks could have the same energy, but your body is able to absorb the energy at slower velocity because it does not cross the threshold for pain and tissue damage. It causes movement of the body, but not damage.
Agood recoil padworks to the same aim, it compresses when the recoil hits it, absorbing the recoil energy and then releasing it a fraction of second later. The energy is not taken away by the pad but it is spread out by milliseconds which can make a great deal of difference to the shooter.
If recoil energy is a wave, the higher the peak the more pain and damage it causes. If that wave is spread out to be a wider wave with a lower peak, it has the same total force, same energy, but it doesn’t cause the pain. The amplitude of the recoil is reduced, and the discomfort with it. There is alot of debate a well about whether choke tubes reduce felt recoil, for more check out my article on that subject: Do Ported Chokes Really Reduce Shotgun Recoil?
2 Types Of Semi-Automatic Shotguns
Now, enter semi-automatic shotguns. There are two main types of semi-auto shotguns, gas operated guns and recoil/inertia operated shotguns. Before I talk about the differences, I will cover the similarities.
Both types of shotguns have mechanisms that utilize energy from the shot to eject the spent shell, compress the recoil spring, load a new round, and re-cock the shotgun. This process reduces felt recoil in two ways. First, the compressing of springs, moving of the bolt, and recharging of the gun slows down that recoil energy as it travels backwards. The bolt goes back and then forward creating a counter balancing effect as well. Secondly, there is some friction in the process which burns up a smaller amount of energy.
All of this has the effect of slowing recoil energy on its way to the shoulder and causing less discomfort and allowing one to control the firearm easier.
Inertial Operated Shotguns
Inertia driven shotguns use the recoil energy alone to complete the auto loading process by pushing the bolt backwards, and sometimes more parts, even the entire barrel in some designs like the Browning Auto 5. Shells are exchanged and the gun recharged. The more mass that moves backward, the more the recoil energy is doing before it gets to your shoulder and the more it is slowed thus softening the effect of the shot.
Gas Operated Shotguns
Gas operated semiautomatic shotguns utilize gas pressure from inside the barrel to move push an assembly backwards which works to expel the round, compress the springs, move the bolt, chamber a new round and full recharge the firearm. The outcomes is the same as inertia driven shotguns except that gas operated actions tend to reduce felt recoil slightly more.
The reason being, gas actions relieve gas pressure from inside of the barrel and channel it backwards, and sometimes in unique ways like with the Remington Versa Max. This does not just relieve some of force which would exit the barrel creating recoil but it redirects it in the most advantageous direction, backwards. Some say that relieving gas does nothing to effect recoil, however you must keep in mind that gas does have mass, and gas under pressure does contribute to recoil when it escapes the barrel in a forward direction. But granted, the effects of this are minimal. The moving of the bolt, slide, springs, shells, etc. provides the lion share of the benefits.
Ultimately the semi-auto shotguns that best reduce felt recoil tend to be more of a function of how that particular gun is designed rather than if it was gas or inertial driven.
The Recoil Research
Now the big question is by how much do semiautomatic shotguns reduce felt recoil. This is where my research comes into play. I reached out to many of the largest shotgun manufacturers in the U.S. Not all of them, but many of them. Companies like Mossberg, Browning, Benelli, Winchester, Remington, and more.
Not all of the companies responded to me, and of those who did, not all of them gave me helpful information. But numerous companies did weigh in on the subject. Keep in mind, these are not people on forums, Facebook, YouTube, or magazine writers, these are the people who make the shotguns. Not that there is anything wrong with people in those other channels, I am one of them! But the shotgun manufacturer will always know more about their product than the shotgun user or commentator.
I ask all of the companies almost the exact same thing. How much does your semi-automatic shotguns reduce felt recoil compared to your pump shotguns? I then inserted the names of certain shotgun models they sell, aiming for the most popular in both categories, such as with the semiautomatic Mossberg 930 and 940 vs. the Mossberg 500 pump. And theBenelli Super Black Eagle 3 shotgun vs. theBenelli Super Novapump action shotgun. In this I asked all of the companies to compare two of their own guns that they know intimately, as I tried to look for patterns to answering the bigger question.
How Much Do Semi-automatic Shotguns Reduce Recoil?
The results are below. I will not disclose which companies responded and who said what because I did not approach them as a reporter looking for on the record statements.
In total I received 5 responses as percentages. In other words, their semi-auto shotguns should reduce felt recoil by these percentages compared to their pump shotguns.
10% felt recoil reduction.
25% felt recoil reduction.
35% felt recoil reduction.
40% felt recoil reduction.
50% felt recoil reduction.
Averaged, we are at 32%.
Now it is possible that the manufacturers provided overly optimistic figures, and I am personally working on a way to objectively measure and report felt recoil so I can put these figures to the test. However, these results are consistent with my personal experience and expectations.
So do semi-automatic shotguns reduce recoil? No. But they do significantly reduce felt recoil and could help you shoot more comfortably and effectively.
Be sure to listen toThe New Hunters Guide Podcast,andcheck us out on YouTube. If you want to learn more about hunting, check out the different hunting areas that my podcast covers, there are over 200 episodes, all organized by topic:
George Konetes Ph.D. – Founder and Host of the New Hunters Guide.
The New Hunters Guide is simply what George wishes he would have had when learning how to hunt; a single place to get practical hands on knowledge about different kinds of hunting, gear, strategy, and tips that can improve your comfort and fun factor in the woods.
Soft calling may be the easiest way for new or long-time turkey hunters to up their chances of success in the woods. On this episode I talk about how to accomplish more by calling less and quieter in many common situations where gobblers are close by.
Turkey hunters tend to want to call loud, aggressive, and often. There are certainly times when this approach works but more often the soft call is what is going to get turkeys to come into range. There are a variety of reasons for this but the biggest one is simply that most hens call softly and sparingly most of the time.
Most turkey hunters only hear the loud aggressive calling because they do not get close enough to hear the softer and more subtle sounds. But it is that subtlety that will help put more birds on your wall.
And the best part is, it involves calling less with more margin for error, something that is perfect for new hunters.
Listen to the episode to learn about soft calling.
This is a special alert episode to help you be successful despite the current struggles to get turkey hunting ammunition. I cover strategies to find the ammo you want, as well as how to select a plan B shotgun shell, and how to find unconventional turkey loads.
No matter what ammo you end up using, make absolutely certain you pattern test that new ammo before taking it into the woods. You need to know how it performs at hunting distances and you need to know where to aim on the turkey because every shell can be different.
When it comes to turkey hunting, sometimes fixing mistakes can do more to boost your chances of success in the woods than anything else. On this episode I share 7 bad habits that new and experienced turkey hunters easily fall into that can cost them hunts.
People often try to figure out exactly what they should do or what the next big thing they can add to their strategy or gear to make them better. These aren’t bad ideas but if you are making big mistakes or have a few underlying bad habits, you need to fix those first. Else any incremental gains from better strategy or gear will not amount to much.
Plugging the lowest hole in the bucket requires a willingness to learn and a dash of humility. We all have blind spots, and we can all improve in different areas.
Listen to the episode to hear the 7 turkey hunting bad habits.
