November is the best time of the year to hunt deer! It is also the worst time… November is the stuff that dreams are made of in the deer woods. On this episode I talk about how November is unique and how to hunt it effectively, both the amazing first half of the month during the peak rut and the terrible last portion of the month which is the post rut lock down.

November has 2 main hunting phases

  1. The Peak Rut – This is the golden window when wonderful things happen. Deer are moving, bucks are searching for does, things can happen at any hour of the day, and in places where you have not seen much action before.
  2. The Post Rut Lockdown – This is worst time for hunting of the year. Bucks are exhausted from the rut and essentially bed down almost all day and eat through the night trying to recover their strength. Opportunities here are extremely limited and often hunting pressure extends this normally brief period of time. 

In November you can hunt deer effectively using almost any strategy such as ambush hunting from a tree stand or ground blind. You can also still hunt deer at almost any time of day during the early phase. Deer drives can be used effectively in the later portion of the month. And walking into the woods and sitting against a tree can also be effective.

The big key is identifying which phase of the hunting season is going on in your area and then matching the right strategy, timing, and location to it. In general, anywhere you can find cover and food is likely to be a prime deer area. However never go solely on habitat potential, you always want to hunt sign. Find where the deer really are or really have been and then select a strategy to hunt them there.

Listen to the podcast episode to hear the details of these two phases and what you can do to hunt each one most effectively. 

 

Are you at risk every time you walk into the woods hunting ducks, geese, doves, turkeys, and pretty much anything with a gun? Are you suffering irreparable damage to your hearing on every hunt? The sad answer is yes, but there is a way to stay safe and protect both your hearing and your future. We are going to dive into that and more on this episode!

Duck hunters know there are risks with firearms, deep water, and the elements but there are other dangers they face every time they walk into the woods. It is not just a danger of something that could happen, this is happening on every hunt to every hunter unless they do something to protect themselves. And that is hearing loss caused by firearms use.

To help me talk about the problem and the solution I have Bill Dickenson with me today, Dr. of Audiology, Lifelong hunter, fellow believer and founder of Tetra Hearing, a company that may be doing more than any other to change the lives of hunters young and old.

Hearing loss from hunting is kind of like radiation exposure, sometimes the ill effects are immediate but more often they are cumulative over time, slowly creeping up until you realize you have big health issues. And the issues go far beyond just not being able to hear as well, that is only the tip of the iceberg. 

Sometimes you find the perfect balance between performance and cost, for me BOSS copper plated bismuth shotshells are just that for waterfowl hunting. I bought my first BOSS waterfowl hunting shells almost two years ago and since then I have recorded 27 videos for my YouTube Channel testing patterns, ballistics gel penetration, recoil and other things with BOSS as the main ammo. 

I have evaluated BOSS Shotshells against many of the leading shotshells on the market like Kent Bismuth and Fasteel, Winchester Bismuth and Blindside, HEVI-Shot Bismuth, HEVI-Steel, HEVI XII, and many more, While BOSS has not won every test against every other duck hunting ammunition on the market, they have proven to have the best performance per dollar, in my estimation. 

Why BOSS?

I was rounding out a fairly disappointing waterfowl season where it seemed like none of the birds I shot were recovered. I knew I hit them, I had feathers across the water to prove it, but the steel shot I was using made me feel like I was firing saw dust out of my shotgun. It just didn’t have enough terminal performance to finish the job. I needed something better, and a friend tipped me off about BOSS. 

Within just a few minutes on their website I was thrilled at what I had found. But I had questions, many questions. So, I wrote to them and one of the actual owners of the company called me and we talked for hours on multiple occasions along with emails and text messages back and forth until I was satisfied and ordered my first few boxes with my own money. They had no idea I had a blog, or a podcast, and my YouTube channel didn’t even exist yet. I was just another customer. 

The Power Of Bismuth

So what makes BOSS Bismuth so great? First, it is the density of bismuth. Steel has a density of 7.8 g/cm3 while bismuth has a density of 9.7 g/cm3 depending on what its alloyed with. That makes bismuth about 25% denser than steel. Which mean every bismuth pellet is heavier and has more energy than steel pellets of the same size. So even at the muzzle of the gun, bismuth is going to have more power. This is not what makes bismuth so great though.

The bigger benefit is that because of the increased density, bismuth loses velocity slower than steel. So even if bismuth and steel leave the gun at the same speed, at 40 yards the bismuth is going much faster and it has more energy because of its higher density, so the power is multiplied.  Bismuth tends to have about 40% more power at 40 yards than steel.

Now steel shot makers try to compensate for this by raising the velocity and the pellet size. BOSS Bismuth leaves the gun at 1350 fps and many steel companies are pushing their steel loads to 1500 fps or more, in fact 1550 fps is not uncommon. However, because steel has such low density, it loses this velocity by the time it reaches its target.

The 3 sets of charts and graphs below illustrate how steel, bismuth and lead lose velocity after leaving the gun. When bismuth and steel are moving at the same speed, bismuth is already faster by the 10-yard mark. When steel stars out 150 fps faster, the bismuth has caught up to it at 15 yards. And when steel leaves the muzzle going a ridiculous 400 fps faster, bismuth still catches up at about 35 yards.  

So no matter how fast the steel is going at the muzzle, the bismuth will always be going faster at the 40-yard mark. And addition to having more speed, it always has more power because it is denser. Of course, lead does even better at retaining energy because it is denser still. But compared to steel, bismuth rules the day.

Now my testing also demonstrates that you cannot effectively compensate by just using larger steel shot. The below video test shows that #2 BOSS Bismuth has about 34% more ballistics gel penetration at 40 yards compared to steel #2 going 200 fps faster. But the BOSS Bismuth #2 also has 26% more penetration than steel BB shot going 200 FPS faster.  

So no matter how large you make the steel shot, you cannot beat the bismuth. And of course, the bismuth has more pellets because #2 will always have more pellets than BB. 

Copper Plating

The greatest features of BOSS go beyond its base material, however.  BOSS Patented the process for copper plating bismuth. I did a full article on this subject titled: Why Is Shotgun Shot Copper Plated? and you need to check that out. But in short, copper plating improves lubricity which improves patterns, velocity, and penetration to a small degree, while also potentially protecting the barrel.

Bismuth in general is able to deform on impact breaking bones and causing more damage than steel which is more prone to bouncing. Add the copper plating to the bismuth and you have multiple factors that increase lethality against ducks and geese and all winged game. Also, BOSS does make a copper plated tungsten TSS shell for turkey hunting call BOSS Tom, for which I also did a full review like this one.

Patterning

BOSS also engineers their loads to maximize performance with the average shotgun and choke tube combination, providing ideal and easy to tune patterns for short, medium, and long ranges. My many pattern tests put BOSS at about a 72% pattern density with a 3% +/- at 40 yards with a tight choke. Which is perfect for me, and most hunters.

Yes, other bismuth brands like Kent and Winchester use shot cups and wads geared for tighter patterns, up to 90% at 40 yards, but those are only ideal for long range hunting, pass shooting, and shooting at birds on the water at long range. They are too tight for normal ranges and need very open chokes to be effective at short range. BOSS comes tuned to pattern well for the average hunter and gear setup and is flexible for a variety of specialty applications. But if you want to shoot ducks on the water at 50 yards, Winchester and Kent Bismuth may provide some advantages with extra full chokes at excessive ranges. To each his own.

Cost Factors

BOSS Copper Plated Bismuth tends to be the most cost-effective bismuth load on the market. I have never seen another bismuth load cheaper in terms of cost per shell. And often prices fluctuate greatly for other bismuth brands based on demand and there may be price gouging.

BOSS’s prices are always stable because they only sell direct to consumer from their website. You can usually get free shipping if you order more than $100 of product, and I have teamed up with friends to share small orders in order to not pay for shipping. I am pretty much resigned to never pay for shipping on anything from anyone if I can avoid it. In my opinion, BOSS’s bismuth shotshells are the best balance of cost and performance on the market. 

Shot Sizes & Loads

BOSS is a direct-to-consumer ammo company that only sells through its website. Some see this as a disadvantage but they are thinking too narrowly. Because of this, BOSS is able to have more sku’s than any other duck or goose hunting ammo company that sells through stores. They have about 26 different combinations for 12 gauge alone. And they have another 38 options in 10-gauge, 16-gauge, 20-gauge, 28 gauge, and .410.  That is 64 options for different gauges, pellet sizes, payloads, etc. Whatever your desired shell is, they probably have it.  No one else on the market can touch their variety. 

And their specialty shell is the 12 gauge 2 3/4″ #5 with 1.25 ounces of shot. They recommend this as the best all-season option. It is the equivalent of the old standard lead waterfowl hunting loads of 2 3/4 #6 lead with 1.125 oz of shot.  Low recoil, high pattern density, and high terminal ballistic energy. In fact BOSS does not even sell a 3.5″ 12-gauge load. In their words it is totally unnecessary, “you cannot kill the ducks any deader” than you can with their 3″ 12-gauge shells. I couldn’t agree more actually, but then again I am the guy who produced the video: Why You Should NOT Hunt With 3.5″ Shotgun Shells.

Feild Tests

I do believe I have done more BOSS Bismuth field test videos than anyone else on all of YouTube, including BOSS themselves. I am not sponsored by BOSS or compensated in any way by them to do this review. I have just been a long-standing fan, and someone who is fascinated with their product and wants to test it against everything I can to learn more about it and how it really performs.  In fact, the reason I bought my first block of ballistics gel was simply to see how much better BOSS was than the steel loads I had been using. I just decided to record that testing because I thought others would be interested also.

I have ballistics gel tested and pattern tested BOSS Shotshells against many of their chief competitors who make steel, premium steel, bismuth, and tungsten alloy waterfowl hunting loads. You can find all of my BOSS related videos on my YouTube Channel

BOSS does not always have the best pattern. And sometimes they don’t have the best penetration either, compared to metals that are even heavier than lead. However, BOSS has always beaten the competing loads in one or more areas, and sometimes all areas. The consistent performance and lower relative cost puts BOSS at the top of my list. For even more info, check out my podcast episode: All About Shotguns and Shells for Duck Hunters

Hunting With BOSS

For the last two years I have hunted with BOSS Bismuth #5, #4, #3/5, and #2 shot. Each one has been an excellent performing shell and done everything I have asked of it. People often ask what my favorite shot size is for BOSS and for me and what I hunt, that would be the #4. I think it is the best all-around load with ballistics energy approximately equal to steel #1 shot. However, I prefer the BOSS #5 for early season hunting of pretty much everything, the #2 for late season goose hunting. The #3/5 is a great load also and I did a full video testing the #3/5 against the #4.

I also have no hesitation to use BOSS Bismuth for hunting pheasants, doves, crows, and anything that flies. I just use 1 size larger shot than the lead size I would normally use, and I do not feel any handicap at all. 

Pros & Cons

The Pros:

  • Superior density compared to steel
  • Copper plating improves performance in several categories
  • Designed for use in the most common applications, you cannot mess it up
  • Softer material allows you to use old barrels and guns not rated for steel
  • Best priced bismuth option on the market
  • Still similar in price to premium steel options and blends like HEVI-Hammer
  • Tested and rated for velocity at 40-degrees Fahrenheit unlike many other who rate at an unrealistic 70 degrees
  • No plastic, flax, buckwheat or other fillers mixed into the shot
  • Coolest looking shell on the market. That counts for something!
  • More shot and load sizes and options than all of their competitors combined
  • Order a case and you get the BOSS moneybag, which is now my favorite way to carry shells into the field

The Cons:

  • Not cheap, no matter how you slice it.
  • Not the best load for ultra-long range at 50 yards, at least not in my gun/chokes 
  • You can’t get them in a store at the last minute, you have to order before you need them

Final Analysis

Why am I big proponent of BOSS? Because I’ve done 27 tests and it just works. It pattens well, it has outstanding ballistics gel penetration. It enables me to shoot ducks in the air or on the water at 40 yards reliably, and it does the job. When I go hunting, I do not want to think about my ammo. I spend the off-season testing, patterning, comparing, and doing all the leg work so when I walk into a hunt I only need to think about the hunt, and I am confident that if I do my part then BOSS will do its part. To see how BOSS stacks up against other Bismuth brands, check out this article I did: Best Bismuth Shotshells Review | BOSS, Kent, Winchester, HEVI.

I feel more confident than I ever did with steel, and I like that I can always order more ammo at any size and specs, and I do not have to go to a dozen stores to find exactly what I want. Yes, BOSS costs more than steel, but for me it’s well worth it. For you, that depends on your budget, style, and what you value. This review was for the BOSS Legacy Load, check out this review of the BOSS Warchief. As a note, over the years BOSS has sent me some shells at my request for reviews, many others I bought with my own money.

Be sure to listen to The New Hunters Guide Podcast and check us out on YouTube

Till next time. God bless you, and go get em in the woods!

George Konetes Ph.D. – Founder and Host of the New Hunters Guide.

The New Hunters Guide is simply what George wishes he would have had when learning how to hunt; a single place to get practical hands on knowledge about different kinds of hunting, gear, strategy, and tips that can improve your comfort and fun factor in the woods.

This season I have heard of people making the same mistakes over and over when picking their deer hunting spot. Now that the rut is here, it is time to correct that error and pick much better and more productive hunting spots, be them on the ground or in a tree stand. On this episode I go in depth to explain this big mistake and the many ways you can improve your hunt by correcting it. 

Where you setup make a big difference when it comes to taking game. It is the single most strategic decision you can make. Picking a spot where you can see deer is not the same as picking a spot where you can take deer. You have got to focus 100% on the latter. Seeing deer does nothing to put venison in the freezer. 

Always focus on selecting stand and blind locations where you can take deer home. And as more hunters begin to fill the woods you need to also take into account how their activities impact deer movement and help or hurt you. Always work to leverage their activity to your advantage as well.

Listen to the podcast episode to hear the one huge tip!

The only good thing about a terrible hunt is when you can learn from it and help other people avoid what happened to you. On this episode I talk about the worst duck hunt of my life and how I wish I had known the answer to a very important question before I went into the woods: how do you humanely and quickly dispatch a live duck that makes it into your hands? 

No matter how much you practice, how tight your choke tube, or how good your ammunition, there will be times when you wound or cripple a duck that needs finished off. The hunter’s goal should be to kill the duck as quickly and humanely as possible to minimize suffering and ensure the duck does not get away for prolonged suffering. 

Not knowing how to do this led me through a traumatic series of events that became the worst duck hunt of my life. Had I heard this simple podcast episode first, it would have saved me so much trouble and saved a duck much more suffering as well. 

Here is the most concise document I’ve found with methods to kill a downed duck. The cervical dislocation is the main one I mentioned in the episode. Fact-Sheet-Dispatch-of-Duck-CD-Method-2019.pdf (gma.vic.gov.au)

How to prepare for a black bear hunt hinges upon how the battlefield is chosen. If you are hunting locally and you can pick the area, conditions, and weather then selecting gear is very easy. But if you are traveling to an unfamiliar battle ground, there are many unknowns and things you need to take into account. In this episode I talk about making bear hunting preparations for those newer to the sport.

Show Notes:

Most people do not start hunting bear as the first game they ever pursue, they have at least some experience hunting something else first, maybe deer, turkey, waterfowl or small game. Those skills can form the foundation of hunting knowledge you need to get started as you seek to add bear specific knowledge to your toolbox. I have done many other episodes focused on helping you build that knowledge base check those out.

The gear you need to hunt bear is almost entirely dependent on the location, weather, and strategy you use. Your deer hunting gear could be perfect. Or you may want gear more focused towards elk hunting. Alot of different types of gear can work if you know how to be resourceful and creative with your setup. Cheap gear can do a lot more than many people give it credit; however, you need to use that cheap gear differently.

For example, if you have cheap boots and cheap socks, you can get by better if you bring several changes of socks and two pair of boots. This will help keep your feet fresh, warm, and blister free. If you have cheap base layers, you can stretch their capabilities by bringing a second pair with you to rotate at mid-day to keep you dry, warm, and reduce chaffing.  

When it comes to firearms, a lot of rifles will work just fine. You want something that you can accurate shoot out to 150-200 yards and has enough power at that range to bring down a black bear quickly. For example, a 30-30 is just a bit light at range, but still just fine close up. A .308 is perfect, a 30-06 is just as a perfect, as is a .270, 7mm magnum, and many other chamberings. 

Listen to the episode to hear all the details.

I found High ‘N Dry waders after an extensive and exhausting search for a new pair of quality chest waders for waterfowl hunting. I bought my first pair 3 duck seasons ago and they instantly became my favorite company in the waders industry. Now I have both their breathable and neoprene waders as well as their B2 base layers and this review will include insights into all of them, as well as tackling the question; are breathable or neoprene waders better?

The Research Phase

I spent months looking at waders when I was ready for new ones. I looked at so many brands and designs and features that my head was spinning. There was only one constant, I could not find a single thing that was up to my quality standards. I sifted through hundreds of waders and the best of them had only mediocre reviews. I looked at cheap waders, mid-grade, expensive and premium waders, and nothing seem to last long. A service life of 1-2 seasons was the average, almost nothing made it through 3 seasons and I wanted better. To hear more about the challenges and difficulties of finding good waders check out my podcast episode All About Duck Hunting Waders.

I gave up looking for duck hunting waders and began looking for commercial and industrial grade waders. I decided if the hunting industry did not produce waders that were durable enough then I would look into other industries. That is what lead me to discover High ‘N Dry.  The founders of the company had roots as commercial watermen, farming oysters and clams. They were working in their waders all day, hundreds of days a year. They also couldn’t find commercial grade waders that were durable enough for the job so they decide to make their own. Being avid waterfowl hunters, they decided to also make the waders in various camouflage patterns and brought them to market.

I reached out to High ‘N Dry and asked them a series of questions about their products and they were the first company that had impressed me. I had developed a gold standard I wanted in waders so I asked them my big question: Will your waders last me 50 hunts over 5 years with responsible use and care? They did not hesitate to say that was a very reasonable expectation on my part. So I gave them my money. It’s been 3 seasons since that day, and that first pair of waders is not showing any signs of wearing out yet. 

What Is Unique About High ‘N Dry?

I can sum that up in two words, durability, and boots.  High ‘N Dry’s waders just keep working. They don’t wear out, they don’t wear through, they don’t come apart at the seams, they don’t dry rot, they don’t leak, they just keep working. My experience with the neoprene and the breathables is the same thus far.  They are rugged well-constructed waders. The breathable waders have 4 layers of materials with multi-layer seam sealing technology. The Neoprene waders have a single seam construction with 6-layer seam sealing technology.  However, nothing is indestructible, you can destroy them, more on that later. But they don’t seem to fail under any circumstances on their own, even after years.

The boots are also unique. They have 55% rubber reinforced boots with 800g or 1500g equivalent of synthetic insultation. Simply put, the boots are real boots. They are like putting on my Muck boots. They are not half shell boots, moon boosts, stocking foot boots, or any other cheap wader boot that only has insulation around you toes. The whole boot is insulated, the whole boot is warm, and it is strong, comfortable, has arch support and you can walk for miles in them. I don’t recommend walking miles in any waders, but I’ve had to do it and the boots are up to the task. They also have great grip and strong soles. Just 3 days before writing this review I did a morning hunt when it was 38 degrees Fahrenheit and we were sitting in 10″ deep water for hours. I had on only the 800g boots and my feet never got cold.

High ‘N Dry Neoprene Wader Review

I bought the High ‘N Dry Neoprene Waders first, in bottomland camo with 1600g boots. I wanted the warmest and more durable waders possible for the late season. And wow did they deliver with 5mm neoprene construction with Kevlar reinforced knees. Now any 5mm neoprene is going to keep you warm, it is a super insulator. Coupled with the aforementioned boots and they are outstanding. The coldest I’ve hunted in them was 7 degrees Fahrenheit. And let me tell you. That is brutal cold. But the waders were more than up for the task and we took home ducks that day. I have broken brush with them, I have stomped holes in inch thick ice. And I have braved mud so thick and sticky that you felt like it would tear your foot right off. Never had an issue. Check my High ‘N Dry Neoprene Waders Video Review as well.

High ‘N Dry Neoprene Chest Wader Features:

  • Neoprene reinforced knees with exterior Kevlar® protection
  • 5mm neoprene body with limited, single-seam construction
  • Six-layer seam sealing technology
  • Available in Mossy Oak® Shadow Grass Blades, Mossy Oak® Bottomland, and Brown
  • Thinsulate™Ultra + Neoprene + Synthetic Wool insulation = 1500g eq.
  • 55% natural rubber reinforced boots
  • Gusseted crotch for mobility and comfort
  • Exterior rainproof pocket
  • Men’s sizes 7-15 in Regular, Stout, and Tall

Additionally, I can say the suspender straps are comfortable and durable and the clips are very nice. For cold weather applications these waders are the best of the best. I cannot recommend them highly enough. It is true they are not super cheap, but their only competitors cost 2-3 times as much and give no additional performance benefits. The only downside is the nature of neoprene waders, they are heavy and bulky. It is just a bulky material. You need that when it’s cold but in the early season it can be a bit much. Which lead me to try their breathable waders.

High ‘N Dry Neoprene Wader Review

As much as I like the neoprene waders, I wanted something more manageable for the early season, so I set my sights on the arguably even more innovative High N’ Dry Breathable Waders. And wow, they were everything I dreamed they would be, light, flexible, strong, and more comfortable when it was 60 degrees+ outside. I was thoroughly impressed by the construction, every seam and weak point is reinforced. The area’s most likely to fail have extra layers, extra protection, Kevlar armor, and more. They are made to last. My favorite feature is that I can pack them into a backpack with the boots sticking out the top and walk miles into the woods to jump hunt and then pull my waders out and put them on if I hit a duck. That is pretty much impossible with neoprene.

High ‘N Dry Breathable Chest Wader Features:

  • Neoprene reinforced knees with exterior Kevlar® protection
  • Four-layer breathable fabric
  • Sonic Welded; Multi-layer seam sealing technology
  • Available in Mossy Oak® Shadow Grass Blades, Mossy Oak® Bottomland, and Brown
  • Thinsulate™ + Neoprene + Synthetic Wool insulation in two boot options = 800g & 1500g eq.
  • 55% natural rubber reinforced boots
  • Exterior rainproof pocket, interior zippered pocket, reach through chest pocket
  • Men’s sizes 7-15 in Regular, Stout, Tall and B.I.G.
  • Uninsulated Upper to allow optimum comfort thru layering

The breathable waders are also easier to dry and move around in. I can put them so quickly in the field as well, which I have to do regularly when jump hunting creeks, so the downed ducks are not swept downstream. The engineering on these is very impressive. Neoprene also tends to be a little more durable than breathable waders and can stand up to a little bit more abuse. Here is my neoprene chest waders review video.

Wader Repair

No waders last forever. High ‘N Dry will be the first ones to tell you that. But they should last for years and they should not fail before their time. That said, if you walk into sharp things at high speed, have knife accidents, fall onto jagged rocks, or any other of the many high impact things waterfowlers do, you can cut, puncture or tear your waders. And that is no problem. High ‘N Dry has a proprietary relationship with 3M and sells 4000 UV Marine Grade Sealant in black. Put this on this on both sides of the puncture and you are good to go within 24 hours. It is flexible, leak proof, strong, and long lasting. I did once charge into a jagged spear of a stick that we used to make a blind near dawn suffering from sleep deprivation and poked a hole in the outer layer of my neoprene. The 3m stuff left it stronger than it was before.

Bells & Whistles

If High ‘N Dry is criticized for anything it is their lack of bells and whistles. Both neoprene and breathable waders have a pocket or two with a couple of clips that you could attack things like hand warming muff to. That is it. No removable insulating layers, no dozens of pockets inside or outside, no built-in safety whistle, no shotgun shell loops, no duck call holders, no carabiners, no tool holders, nothing. And I am so thankful for that. The wader industry has been trying so hard for years to take cheap waders with moon boots that only last a season and a half and dress them up with all kinds of fancy features you do not really need instead of just making good waders. And here is the thing, the more gizmos you add, the more potential failure points in the construction there are.

For me, waders are tool, like hammer or wrench. You want them to do their one job well, every time, forever. My hammer doesn’t need a cup holder or a rear-view mirror. I do not want any of that stuff that makes the waders heavier and cost more, I just want quality durable waders that keep me dry and last a long time. That is it. I do not want removable insulation on waders that don’t make it through two seasons. I can wear more layers if it’s cold. I can get neoprene waders if it’s really cold. I want every dollar of the purchase price to go into quality material and construction, and that is what High ‘N Dry does. It is like they read my mind.

High ‘N Dry B2 Base Layers Review

This season I got a Set of the B2 Base Layers as well. You can also buy just the quarter zip hoody or bottoms. These layers are so nice, especially for the early season. They are designed and cut to be worn under waders, so they don’t bunch up where you don’t want them to and they have heel stirrups and thumb loops so you can get them into your wader boots without them riding up and slide your arms through outer layers. They also wick away moister and dry quickly, especially when paired with the breathable waders. They are nice and warm as well. With the hoody, my favorite part is the built in facemask that you can seemingly pull out of nowhere to cover you face with a great camo breathable layer. My biggest complaint is that they do not come in full camo, I found that I would have worn them alone on some of warmer days during this year’s early season.

Quarter Zip Features:

  • DWR Treated fabric: Durable Water Resistant to shed light rain and mist
  • Moisture wicking
  • Internal face mask/neck gator
  • Thumb loops
  • Magnetic chest pocket
  • Hood
  • Athletic fit
  • YKK Zippers

Bottoms Features:

  • DWR Treated fabric: Durable Water Resistant to shed light rain and mist
  • Moisture wicking
  • Heel stirrups
  • Draw string closure
  • Athletic fit
  • Side pockets

These are marketed as mid layers/base layers. I find the pants have enough room that I can wear a nice base layer under them when its that cold, the quarter zip doesn’t have enough room for that. So order a size larger than you normally wear if that is your plan. Else it fits well as a next to skin layer and both are very comfortable for that job with lofty polar fleece and spandex added to the material. They are high quality smart layers with lots of little features that are very nice.

What Is Better, Neoprene or Breathable Waders?

This is a very easy question for me to answer now that I have the highest quality and most durable neoprene and breathable waders on the market to compare them. It depends on when, where, and how you hunt.

  1. For the early season or any mild climate, the breathable waders are the best tool.
  2. For cold weather, breaking ice, and late season hunts, the neoprene waders are the best tool.
  3. If you want to put the waders in an easy to carry backpack and go jump hunting, then you want breathable waders.
  4. If you are hunting thick, dense stuff that puts a lot of wear on your gear, you want neoprene because it’s a little thicker and more durable. 
  5. If you get cold easy, get neoprene.
  6. If you are prone to running hot all the time, get breathables.
  7. If you are prone to running out of energy quickly, get the lighter breathables.
  8. If you walk far in your waders, on land or in the stream, get the breathables.
  9. If you spend alot of time standing or sitting in cold water, get the neoprene.

The best answer is you should get both, so you have the best the tool for every hunt. But most people, like myself, are only buying one at a time so you need to pick which one is best for you to start with. For me, and how I hunt, and what is most important to my area and needs, I think the breathable waders are the better tool for more days of the season. But you have to decide which is best for you. The neoprene is a little less expensive, that’s a noteworthy factor as well.  And if you are looking for a good inexpensive waterproof jacket to wear with these in the rain, check out my review of the TideWe Rain Suit, it was completely waterproof at a very low price point.

The Final Analysis

I think High ‘N Dry makes the best waders on the market right now. And no, they are not paying me to say that.  They may cost a little more than some other brands, but I believe they will last ALOT longer. Your cost per season should be much lower with High ‘N Dry because you can go more seasons without having to replace your waders. And they are more comfortable, more usable, and enjoyable for all of those seasons than most of their competitors. 

Be sure to listen to The New Hunters Guide Podcast and check us out on YouTube

Till next time. God bless you, and go get em in the woods!

George Konetes Ph.D. – Founder and Host of the New Hunters Guide.

The New Hunters Guide is simply what George wishes he would have had when learning how to hunt; a single place to get practical hands on knowledge about different kinds of hunting, gear, strategy, and tips that can improve your comfort and fun factor in th

As a note, High N’ Dry gave me the breathable waders to review, thanks to them for their support. I bought the neoprene waders with my own money.

Fall turkey hunting is a very different pursuit than spring turkey hunting, it has its own distinct flavor and unique strategies. On this episode I talk about five strategies for hunting fall turkey, the best times of day, and how to chain turkey hunts together with other game pursuits.

5 was you can hunt turkeys in the fall:

  1. Big Rifle Hunting – This involves using terrain to gain altitude where you can see big distances and trying to take a bird from long range.
  2. Small Rifle Hunting – This is most often done as an ambush technique or when trying to divert nearby birds into your area.
  3. Scatter and Call – This approach is used when you can get close enough to bust up a flock, hide, and try to call them back together. 
  4. Flush and Shoot – Similar to pheasant hunting, you push through areas with cover trying to flush birds and shoot them in the air.
  5. Slowly Stalking – Akin to still hunting deer, this approach focusses on moving stealthily through thick woods, trying to spot and shoot a bird before it sees you.

On of the best things about fall turkey hunting is you can also combine other pursuits, in some places you can hunt turkey and deer at the same time, or turkey and pheasant at the same time, or ducks, small game, and any number of birds. Do not fall into the trap of thinking you need super specialized gear to take all these types of game either. often you can use the same shotgun and the same ammo to hunt several different things, just make sure you are compliant with local laws.

You can shoot turkeys with steel, bismuth, tungsten, lead, or anything else that flies out of a shotgun or rifle if its legal. One of the best things new hunters can do when they are learning to turkey hunt is combine several pursuits to maximize their chances of coming out of the woods with dinner and to have the most fun.

In many areas you can take all different types of turkeys in the fall also, be them big toms, jakes, hens, or poults. Do not be afraid of taking a hen in the fall or a poult. Turkey winter survival rates are not as high as many think. There is a good chance that the turkey you shoot in the fall was not going to survive the winter due to lack of food, predation, or severe weather. Taking a fall bird has the most minimal potential impact on the turkey population. And a small turkey can be a very tasty meal, something you almost never find in a grocery store either.

The best guns for fall turkey hunting tend to be shotguns or small rifles. It may be a 12 gauge, 20 gauge or other shotgun, a shotgun combined with a rifle, or a smaller rifle such as as .22lr, .22 magnum, .17 HMR, a .22 hornet or a lightly loaded 223. Always check your local to laws to know what is legal and what the proper safety regulations are in your area.

Listen to the episode for all the details on strategy, gun choices, and much much more!

October can be one of the best times to be in the woods, but ALOT is happening and changing this month. If you can flow with the changes and use them to your advantage, you can excel. If you keep trying to do the same thing all month, your effectiveness is going to diminish.  On this episode I talk about how to get the most out of hunting deer in October.

In October:

  • The days go from long to short
  • The weather goes from warm to cool
  • The cover goes from dense to thin
  • The deer go from social to ready to fight to the death
  • The places deer spend time go from summer patterns to fall
  • The times of day bucks are most active goes from evening to morning
  • The hunting pressure goes from zero to heavy
  • The focus of deer goes from munching to breeding
  • The strategy of most hunters from bad to worse

If you know how to manage all of these changes and use them to your advance, this can be your most productive month in the woods!

Listen to the episode for all the details.

The early season has several distinct advantages that can help you find quick success in the deer woods. Too many people look to luck when they should be looking to preparation. On this episode I talk about three tips that helped me shoot my buck during this deer hunting season. 

All of these tips can be summarized in one word, preparation. Once you get into your tree stand or hunting blind, the vast majority of factors that can contribute to your success are behind you.  Yes, you still need to do many things well to be quiet, still, smart, judge distance, take good shots, etc. But those things can only happen if deer have a reason to get within range of you.

Preparation is the unfair advantage that often makes the difference between seeing nothing and consistent success.

Listen to this episode for the three tips that helped me land my early season buck this year. Photo below.

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