Everyone deer hunter needs to develop a basic and realistic ability to track a wounded deer. Some of it will come from experience but much of it can be learned and you do not need special powers or training to get proficient at it. On this podcast episode I share some basic principles for how to track a wounded deer for regular people.
Tracking a deer is all about looking for three main things, blood, tracks, and disturbed environment.
Blood: If you inflicted a mortal wound on a deer it will almost always cause a significant amount of observable bloodloss. There are a few exceptions, but most fatal hits will provide enough blood to follow.
Tracks: Deer have feet, no matter where they go, their feet will hit the ground, often leaving observable evidence they are there. And a running deer produces deeper footprints then a cautious or slow-moving animal.
Disturbed Environment: If a whitetail is fleeing it will often leave visible sign that it passed beyond footprints. It will disturb leaves and dirt, it will push over, trample, or effect grasses, weeds, brush, etc. Even on dry days with hard ground and no blood trail, it can be possible to see where a deer ran if you are mindful of what to look for.
Angles, sunlight, shade, and point of view all play into being able to notice these signs. If you see nothing, perhaps you need to look at things differently; get lower, get more light, use your nose, move more slowly, etc.
When all else fails, using intuition and a simple grid search can help you recover a lost animal. A systematic back and forth in a grid pattern can help you find sign and fallen deer when the trail has run cold. Not all deer are recoverable, but most are and with a little focus and some strategy you can often find your whitetail. You may also need a little courage to knock on neighbors’ doors and ask them if you can follow the deer’s trail onto their property as well.
Does your shotgun fit you? How do you fit a shotgun to your body? The answer to these two questions can determine whether or not you will be able to shoot well or be plagued with poor shots and lost game. Those who shoot sporting clays, trap, and skeet are more likely to pay attention to shotgun fit than hunters who do no sport shooting. New hunters are especially unaware of these principles. But hunters need to be aware of how their shotgun fits more than anyone else, since each trigger pull has the potential to wound or cripple game.
The good news is that shotgun fit can be very simple. It follows the 80/20 rule. You can gain 80% of the benefit with only 20% of the knowledge and work. In this article, I am going to cover the simple basics of fit, and then go into a little more depth on some of the finer points. I encourage you to read the entire article. The couple of minutes you spend reading this can improve your shooting for the rest of your life.
When asking the question, how to pick a shotgun for waterfowl hunting, or any kind of bird hunting, the fit is the first and most important thing to consider.
When To Fit A Shotgun?
The best time to fit a shotgun is BEFORE you buy it. Going off of written specs can be helpful but there is no replacement for holding the shotgun in your hands and seeing how it fits your body. You are better off going to several stores and holding dozens of shotguns to find one that fits you perfectly than buying the first one off the shelf that looks good.
In modern times however, more and more people are buying hunting shotguns sight unseen. Or they decide well in advance exactly what shotgun they want and go from store-to-store until they find it. I too am guilty of this. In these situations, we must be aware of how to adjust fit rather than simply choosing a shotgun with perfect fit. Thankfully, lots of quality modern shotgun manufacturers like Mossberg, Remington, Browning, Benelli, Beretta, Winchester and many others make modern shotguns with a variety of easy stock adjustments to help fit their shotguns to most shooters.
How Much Does Shotgun Fit Matter?
Having a good fit can make all the difference. I recently got a new shotgun, a Mossberg 940 Pro Waterfowl and ordered it sight unseen. I pickup it up at the sport shop, took it home, cleaned it and then went right to a sporting clays shoot. My first shot ever was at my first clay on a 100-target course. I ended up winning the event that day.
Did I win because I was the best shooter there? No, I was neither the best nor the most experienced. Did I win because the shotgun was so amazing? No. Though it is a nice shotgun, and I did a full write up about it here:Mossberg 940 Pro Waterfowl Review. I was able to win because this shotgun fit me perfectly out of the box. Even better than the shotgun I had been using for years prior. Despite the gun being brand new to me and feeling different in my hands. I had gotten lucky, and no adjustments were needed. But fit makes a huge difference.
The Basic Elements Of Shotgun Fit
When shooting a shotgun your eye functions as the rear site, so proper fit is essential to make sure you are able to properly aim the shotgun. I will cover each of these items in more details but here they are in simple terms.
Length of Pull – What is Length of Pull? Often abbreviated LOP, Length of Pull is the distance from the center of the trigger to the butt of the stock where it fits into your shoulder. Having the proper length means that your eye’s position is comfortable along the sighting plane while the shotgun is held in a firm and safe position.
Comb Height (AKA Drop) – The comb height is the vertical position of where the stock contacts your cheek so you can see clearly down the sighting plane of the barrel, commonly referred to as the rib. If your stock comb is too low, then your eye will be below the sighting plane, and you will shoot low. If your cheek rides too high on the comb, then you will be above the sighting plane and will shoot high.
Cast – The cast of the gun is maybe the most complex of the three elements and exists in multiple dimensions. Most often it is referencing the cast of the stock and how it bends from left to right. Comb height determine if you shoot too high or low and cast determines if you shoot left or right.
About Length Of Pull
If the length of pull is too short, you will be scrunched up holding the gun. You will not have good eye alignment and you will not be able to hit targets consistently. You are also likely to be injured as recoil can push the grip of the stock or even the top of the receiver into your face. Some shotguns are better at managing recoil than others and may be able to help spare you a good smack in the face. Check out my article Do Semi-Auto Shotguns Have Less Recoil REALLY?But in any event, just because shooting doesn’t cause pain, does not mean it is ok to have a short length of pull. Your accuracy, consistency, and overall shooting comfort will suffer.
If the length of pull is too long, you will not be able to consistently mount the gun and your face will likely sink lower on the sloping comb thus effecting comb height. In either case, you will have to bend your neck in one direction or the other to see down the barrel and your shooting and aiming will be inconsistent and difficult.
The more consistent you can shoot the more accurate you will be. Length of pull is all about consistency. You want to be able to naturally, comfortably, and instinctively lift and shoulder your gun the same way, in the same place, every time.
One way length of pull is measured is by putting the stock of the gun into the crease of your elbow, if the tip of your finger rests well in the middle of the trigger, then your length of pull is said to be proper. This is often not accurate though, as we tend to compensate to put our finger in the right place of the trigger and it does not take body size, shape, and position into account. A better way is to measure the distance from the thumb knuckle of your shooting hand to the tip of your nose when mounting the shotgun. If you thumb knuckle is 1.5-2.5 finger widths away from your nose, then your length of pull is about right.
Adjusting Length Of Pull
There are easy and hard ways to adjust the length of pull on a shotgun. For older guns it was common to cut down the stock to shorten it or glue extra material onto the back to lengthen it. Adding some length can easily be done by adding a recoil pad or other extension to the stock. But many modern shotguns come with spacer or shim kits that will easily let you use larger or smaller spacers to adjust the length to what you want.
It is important to note that there is a 1-to-4 ratio for length of pull adjustments. So, for every inch you adjust your stock length, you adjust the length of pull at your trigger finger by four inches. This is why most length of pull adjustments are done in 1/4″ increments or even 1/8″ increments. Then you are adding or remove one inch or a half inch at the trigger finger.
If you are using spacers, you can try a few different lengths and settle in on the right one for you in a few minutes. If you are cutting your stock, you do not have any second chances. So be very cautious. In cases like that, you should probably visit a professional gunsmith or shotgun fitter who can observe and measure you as you mount your gun and can tell the exact amount to cut or add to the stock.
About Comb Height / Drop
Proper comb height or drop is critical to eye alignment. This is maybe the hardest factor to compensate for. If your length of pull is a little too long, you can often make do. If your comb heigh is too low or too high, you are going to miss shots and not understand why.
Having your eye at the right height and the same consistent height is the key to aiming or rather pointing a shotgun. There is almost no way you can make up for a significant misalignment in your comb height. So pay careful attention to this factor. Getting it right is not that hard but it is very important.
Your eye should be able to see straight down the rib of the shotgun to the front bead. You should be able to see the rib but not be looking down on it. If you can’t see the rib or are high above it, then you have a problem you need to work out before you start hunting or sport shooting with the shotgun.
Adjusting Comb Height / Drop
With older guns, comb heigh adjustments were achieved by sanding down the top of the comb to better fit your cheek or gluing on a piece of materials like leather to raise it up some. These work fine but they are not easily reversable. Another option includes a stock sleave that comes with extra or adjustable material to help with comb height. Some guns come with adjustable risers that can take the comb up or down.
The most common way to adjust new guns is again with a series of spacers and shims that can change the angle the stock drops at which adjust the comb heigh in a subtle, easy, and reversable way.
About Cast
Before getting into the details, I should state that as long as the cast of the stock is not opposite your shooting hand, you can likely make do. If you are right-handed and a gun is casted for a left-handed shooter or visa-versa, then you will need to make significant changes. Most shooters can get by with no cast or any cast that is correct to their shooting hand.
A stock that is “cast off” curves away from a right-handed shooter to the right, this is ideal for right-handed shooters. A stock that is “cast on” curves to the left and is preferred for left-handed shooters. Cast is always talked about from the standpoint of right-handed shooters. But for a left handed shooter, being cast-on still curves toward their body, they are just holding the gun on the other side of their body.
Cast has a lot to do with whether your eye is aligned over the sights to the left or the right.
Adjusting Cast
In the old days, adjusting cast was not easy. Either you carved cast into the stock, or you used steam and a vice or similar measure to moisten and heat up the stock and apply a lot of pressure to give it a slight bend. Today, basic cast adjustments can be added by adjusting a shim or spacer that causes the stock to angle away from the shotgun to the right or the left. Many modern shotguns come with a small but sufficient amount of cast built in and more can be added if needed.
The simple way to tell if you have the right cast is to mount the shotgun and see if your eye is right or the left of center as you look down the rib toward the front site. A little bit of misalignment goes a long way, being off by fractions of an inch with your eye can equate to missing by several feet at hunting range. So, you definitely want to make sure your gun fits you reasonably well.
Other Perks To Good Fit
Good fit will improve your ability to shoot accurate and consistently, it can also help improve your ability to handle recoil. People often go to great lengths to mitigate recoil that could be more easily managed if their gun fit them well. Ported choke tubes are sometimes used to reduce recoil, I did a full test video titled Do Ported Choke Tubes Reduce Recoil? to find out if there is any truth to that idea.
Good fit can improve your ability to fire more shots without wearing out as well. Competition shooters and some serious wing shooters can go through hundreds of shells in a day. Good fit is a big help. All of these things combined together also can make you a more confident and smoother shooter.
Perfect Shotgun Fit Is Not Worth It
A 100% perfectly fitting shotgun can be achieved, and competition shooters often have one. Hunters on the other hand are harder to get a perfect fit with because fit is a moving target. Hunters are often wearing different types and different thickness of clothing.
You wear a t-shirt for hunting doves and your shotgun may fit perfectly. You add a fleece layer and hoody for pheasant hunting and you may have your length of pull be a little longer than desired. Throw on a parka for hunting late season ducks and all of a sudden length of pull can be much longer than you remember. Add a balaclava for hunting geese in the snow and your comb height might not be perfect anymore because there is now fabric between your cheek and the stock.
The Simple Test For Good Fit
Absolutely perfection is more trouble than its worth, and then it changes based on your gear. Being close to perfect is plenty good enough for the average hunter. There is a test that you can easily do to see if you are close enough. Simply take a plastic drinking straw and some two-sided tape or masking tape and stick the straw right on top of the rib of your shotgun just above the receiver.
If you can see through the straw and see the front bead clearly, your position is pretty good. If you are too low, too high, or off to the side you won’t be able to see through the straw to get to the front sight. That is a sign that you need to make adjustments to get your shooting form close to where it needs to be.
Good for on your shotgun is very important but like I said, you can get 80% of the benefits with only 20% of the knowledge and work. Hopefully this article helped you make strides towards that. For more check out my video on the subject here:
Till next time. God bless you, and go get em in the woods!
George Konetes Ph.D. – Founder and Host of the New Hunters Guide.
The New Hunters Guide is simply what George wishes he would have had when learning how to hunt; a single place to get practical hands on knowledge about different kinds of hunting, gear, strategy, and tips that can improve your comfort and fun factor in the woods.
There are very few categories of hunting ammunition or gear where there is a very clear best-of-the-best product with no close second. In fact, I can only think of one, and that isWinchester’s Long Beard XR(Extreme Range) turkey hunting shotgun shells. I have done numerous ballistics gel tests and pattern tests, some of which I will link to, examining many of the best turkey loads on the market. And in the lead shotshell category, I have found the Long Beard XR to be second to none.
They have been my top turkey hunting load for almost every season I’ve been in the woods. This ammo review is not sponsored or incentivized in any way. As of this writing I have used my own money to buy every Long Beard XR shell I’ve ever used.
Why Winchester Long Beard XR?
I bought my first box of Winchester Long Beard XR for my second turkey hunting season ever. There were only two or three different kinds of turkey loads in the whole store and I bought a box of each. I did not realize that I had put in my cart the best lead turkey load ever produced in the history of the sport. It took me years to understand that the Long Beard XR was the best of the best and that there was no close runner up in the world of lead shotshells for turkey hunting. I also decided to buy a Carlson’s Long Beard XR Choke Tube to go along with it because it seemed the obvious choice. Those two haphazard marketing driven purchases would prove to have been some of the best hunting gear decisions I ever made.
Long Beard XR Features
I personally have a low tolerance for marketing hype and for something to impress me it needs to have clearly scientific and demonstrable properties. Ironically, I noticed those high performing properties before I even took the time to consider the marketed features of the Long Beard XR. Turns out, the features are rather impressive. There are three main things that this ammo brings to the table.
1) Copper Plated Lead. Copper plating improves lubricity which means the pellets can cut through the air and the target with less friction. This results in tighter patterns, more energy at range, and better penetration. People often ask by how much, and that is the right question. Answering it is hard because companies that use it don’t tend to make the same exact load but with unplated shot. But my preliminary testing shows maybe 5-10% improvement across the board for copper plated shot. I did a full article on the subject titled Why Is Shotgun Shot Copper Plated.
2) Shot-Lok Technology. Winchester uses a special resin to keep all of the pellets together but not bumping into each other as they go through the barrel and choke. This also prevents shot deformation from occurring in the barrel. The resin shatters when the shot is fired but it stays in place until the pellets leave the barrel and separate from the shot cup. I’ll be honest, I do not know of any way to test and see if its accurate or even possible for such a thing to make any difference. But what I do know is that the performance of these shells is outstanding, far beyond any lead shell I have yet tested against them.
3) Specially Designed Shot cup. Winchester does not advertise this much but the shot cup, or the wad, is obviously specially designed for this shell to work with the resin and the copper plated pellets. It holds everything together as it goes through the barrel and then releases perfectly allowing the pellets to fly unhindered at their target in a tight pattern.
The Marketed Performance
Winchester is sure to state how impressive the performance of these shells is. Their marketing summary is usually something similar to the following.
Winchester’s most advanced turkey load – increased lethality at longer ranges
Heavier-than-lead load performance at a fraction of the cost
Shot-Lok Technology – increased shot stability for better downrange performance
Devastating terminal on-target performance
Tighter patterns – 2X the pellents in a 10″ circle up to 60 yards
Deeper penetration and devastating knockdown at longer ranges
Now I have read a lot of similarly sounding marketing and I usually just shake my head at stuff like this. But after I started testing the Winchester Long Beard XR shells, I did a double take on the performance claims.
The Real Performance
So how good is the performance of the Long Beard XR really? Does it have double the pattern density in a 10″ circle? Yes, yes it does, and then some. Often it has triple the pattern density of other turkey loads all going through the same choke tube. All lead loads of course. TSS tungsten turkey shells are a whole different universe and those do perform better, and they should at 400% more cost on average. But in terms of lead, nothing is even close.
Do the Long Beards have deeper penetration? That is harder to test because an apples-to-apples comparison is very difficult to arrange. But even the #6s have all the penetration you could ever want at 40 yards. With about 170 pellets in a 10 in circle, the sheer impact force is going to be devastating. Does this ammo live up to the marketing? I am going to say yes. Here is a video where I tested 8 different random turkey loads that I was able to get my hands on, and some non-turkey loads just for fun. The results are impressive.
What Choke Is Best For The Long Beard XR?
I have tested the Long Beard XR out of a few turkey chokes at this point and by far the best choke I’ve used is the Carlson’s Long Beard XR Choke Tube. According to the marketing this choke was designed expressly for these shells. Now does that really amount to anything engineering wise, or is it just marketing? I am not certain. But what I am sure of is that this choke works good with these shells. It’s the best I’ve tested. So, whatever they have done, they have made sure that this choke is tuned nicely to this load. If I ever find a choke that works as good or better, I’ll come back to this post and add it in here.
What Shot Size Is Best?
They make theWinchester’s Long Beard XRin three different shot sizes, #6, #5, and #4. I did a test video on this very subjectand the results were interesting. For every step up in shot size you gain about 15% more penetration but lose about 15% of the pellets on paper. So, the #6 has 30% more pellets and roughly 35% less penetration than the #4. And the #5 splits the difference and is in the middle.
So which is best? Well, in short you cannot go wrong with any of them. I think I prefer the #5 as the middle ground for long range hunting. The #6 is absolutely best for 40 yards and closer. Beyond 40 yards, I would want the #5 because it has a little more energy. I would prefer the extra pellets over the #4 myself. But like I said. You cannot go wrong with any of them.
Do You Need 3.5″ Shells?
If your gun shoots 3.5″ shells, your shoulder likes 3.5″ shells, and you think you gain an advantage with 3.5″ shells then by all means hunt with them. Personally, I don’t think the extra 1/4 of an ounce matters much. And I would NEVER buy another turkey gun just so I could use 3.5″ shells. I would rather shoot 3″ TSS shells. You would save a lot of money overall. But that said, the 3″ Long Beards are really all you need. I think for the average shooter they will shoot the lighter shells better and the gains from better shooting will exceed the gains from a few more pellets. But if you are a seasoned shooter and you have a gun that will fire them, more payload from a 3.5″ shell is more payload.
How Do They Work Hunting Turkeys?
This is all that really matters right? Well, it is, and it isn’t. I find people’s perception of how things work in the field is often skewed. One or two good or bad experiences and an opinion is stuck in their head regardless of any facts. From the previously mentioned data, you should already be able to tell how they work in the woods, and that is very well. But I since I was killing gobblers with theWinchester Long Beard XRbefore I ever did any ballistics gel tested anything, I can tell you also from experience that this stuff is potent.
If a turkey is within 40 yards and you can aim reasonably well, that turkey is dead. If the turkey is further than 40 yards and you can aim well, it is probably dead too. How far exactly can you take a turkey with the Long Beard XR? I have heard people quote all kinds of crazy ranges, so I am going to do some testing soon with long range shots. But suffice to say, it is the best lead turkey load on the market at any range. If you want more punch, you need to step up to some tungsten, here is an article I did on some: APEX TSS Turkey Hunting Ammo Review.
How Long Does The Ammo Last?
I hunted for years with the same box of Long Beard XR’s. Putting the shells in my gun, taking them out again, putting them in my vest, then back in the gun, and repeat over and over. I’d shoot one shell per year and repeat the process next year with the same handful of shells minus one. This subjects shells to moisture, vibrations, dirt, as well as general wear and tear. I never had one fail to shoot, fail to eject, or lose any noticeable level of performance. The words began to rub off the shell, but they seemed to last forever despite so much handling, year after year.
Final Analysis
TheWinchester Long Beard XRis one of the few hunting shotgun loads that has truly impressed me. These days they cost about $2.50-$3.00 per shell. They may seem expensive but a box of 10 might last you for several years. And it is a fraction of the cost of TSS which does perform better but not that much better. Ultimately if you are hunting turkeys at regular ranges, you have no need to pay for tungsten turkey shot because you cannot kill the turkeys any deader inside of 40 yards than with the Long Beard XR.
I recommend these shells to all hunters, new, experienced, prospective, professional, etc. For the cost, there is no reason to ever shoot anything else at a turkey. They are the best lead load out there, and they are second only to TSS loads that cost $10+ a shell.
Till next time. God bless you, and go get em in the woods!
George Konetes Ph.D. – Founder and Host of the New Hunters Guide.
The New Hunters Guide is simply what George wishes he would have had when learning how to hunt; a single place to get practical hands on knowledge about different kinds of hunting, gear, strategy, and tips that can improve your comfort and fun factor in the woods.
Novemberis the best time of the year to hunt deer! It is also the worst time… November is the stuff that dreams are made of in the deer woods. On this episode I talk about how November is unique and how to hunt it effectively, both the amazing first half of the month during the peak rut and the terrible last portion of the month which is the post rut lock down.
November has 2 main hunting phases
The Peak Rut – This is the golden window when wonderful things happen. Deer are moving, bucks are searching for does, things can happen at any hour of the day, and in places where you have not seen much action before.
The Post Rut Lockdown – This is worst time for hunting of the year. Bucks are exhausted from the rut and essentially bed down almost all day and eat through the night trying to recover their strength. Opportunities here are extremely limited and often hunting pressure extends this normally brief period of time.
In November you can hunt deer effectively using almost any strategy such as ambush hunting from a tree stand or ground blind. You can also still hunt deer at almost any time of day during the early phase. Deer drives can be used effectively in the later portion of the month. And walking into the woods and sitting against a tree can also be effective.
The big key is identifying which phase of the hunting season is going on in your area and then matching the right strategy, timing, and location to it. In general, anywhere you can find cover and food is likely to be a prime deer area. However never go solely on habitat potential, you always want to hunt sign. Find where the deer really are or really have been and then select a strategy to hunt them there.
Listen to the podcast episode to hear the details of these two phases and what you can do to hunt each one most effectively.
Are you at risk every time you walk into the woods hunting ducks, geese, doves, turkeys, and pretty much anything with a gun? Are you suffering irreparable damage to your hearing on every hunt? The sad answer is yes, but there is a way to stay safe and protect both your hearing and your future. We are going to dive into that and more on this episode!
Duck hunters know there are risks with firearms, deep water, and the elements but there are other dangers they face every time they walk into the woods. It is not just a danger of something that could happen, this is happening on every hunt to every hunter unless they do something to protect themselves. And that is hearing loss caused by firearms use.
To help me talk about the problem and the solution I have Bill Dickenson with me today, Dr. of Audiology, Lifelong hunter, fellow believer and founder ofTetra Hearing, a company that may be doing more than any other to change the lives of hunters young and old.
Hearing loss from hunting is kind of like radiation exposure, sometimes the ill effects are immediate but more often they are cumulative over time, slowly creeping up until you realize you have big health issues. And the issues go far beyond just not being able to hear as well, that is only the tip of the iceberg.
Sometimes you find the perfect balance between performance and cost, for me BOSS copper plated bismuth shotshells are just that for waterfowl hunting. I bought my first BOSS waterfowl hunting shells almost two years ago and since then I have recorded 27 videos for my YouTube Channel testing patterns, ballistics gel penetration, recoil and other things with BOSS as the main ammo.
I have evaluated BOSS Shotshells against many of the leading shotshells on the market like Kent Bismuth and Fasteel, Winchester Bismuth and Blindside, HEVI-Shot Bismuth, HEVI-Steel, HEVI XII, and many more, While BOSS has not won every test against every other duck hunting ammunition on the market, they have proven to have the best performance per dollar, in my estimation.
Note: I have bought a lot of BOSS shotshells over the years, but they have also sent me shells for testing and review. Also, Carlson’s and Muller have provided me with choke tubes. But none of these companies have ever paid me anything. Many thanks to all of them for their support.
Why BOSS?
I was rounding out a fairly disappointing waterfowl season where it seemed like none of the birds I shot were recovered. I knew I hit them, I had feathers across the water to prove it, but the steel shot I was using made me feel like I was firing saw dust out of my shotgun. It just didn’t have enough terminal performance to finish the job. I needed something better, and a friend tipped me off about BOSS.
Within just a few minutes on their website I was thrilled at what I had found. But I had questions, many questions. So, I wrote to them and one of the actual owners of the company called me and we talked for hours on multiple occasions along with emails and text messages back and forth until I was satisfied and ordered my first few boxes with my own money. They had no idea I had a blog, or a podcast, and my YouTube channel didn’t even exist yet. I was just another customer.
The Power Of Bismuth
So what makes BOSS Bismuth so great? First, it is the density of bismuth. Steel has a density of 7.8 g/cm3 while bismuth has a density of 9.7 g/cm3 depending on what its alloyed with. That makes bismuth about 25% denser than steel. Which mean every bismuth pellet is heavier and has more energy than steel pellets of the same size. So even at the muzzle of the gun, bismuth is going to have more power. This is not what makes bismuth so great though.
The bigger benefit is that because of the increased density, bismuth loses velocity slower than steel. So even if bismuth and steel leave the gun at the same speed, at 40 yards the bismuth is going much faster and it has more energy because of its higher density, so the power is multiplied. Bismuth tends to have about 40% more power at 40 yards than steel.
Now steel shot makers try to compensate for this by raising the velocity and the pellet size. BOSS Bismuth leaves the gun at 1350 fps and many steel companies are pushing their steel loads to 1500 fps or more, in fact 1550 fps is not uncommon. However, because steel has such low density, it loses this velocity by the time it reaches its target.
The 3 sets of charts and graphs below illustrate how steel, bismuth and lead lose velocity after leaving the gun. When bismuth and steel are moving at the same speed, bismuth is already faster by the 10-yard mark. When steel stars out 150 fps faster, the bismuth has caught up to it at 15 yards. And when steel leaves the muzzle going a ridiculous 400 fps faster, bismuth still catches up at about 35 yards.
So no matter how fast the steel is going at the muzzle, the bismuth will always be going faster at the 40-yard mark. And addition to having more speed, it always has more power because it is denser. Of course, lead does even better at retaining energy because it is denser still. But compared to steel, bismuth rules the day.
Now my testing also demonstrates that you cannot effectively compensate by just using larger steel shot. The below video test shows that #2 BOSS Bismuth has about 34% more ballistics gel penetration at 40 yards compared to steel #2 going 200 fps faster. But the BOSS Bismuth #2 also has 26% more penetration than steel BB shot going 200 FPS faster.
So no matter how large you make the steel shot, you cannot beat the bismuth. And of course, the bismuth has more pellets because #2 will always have more pellets than BB.
Copper Plating
The greatest features of BOSS go beyond its base material, however. BOSS Patented the process for copper plating bismuth. I did a full article on this subject titled:Why Is Shotgun Shot Copper Plated?and you need to check that out. But in short, copper plating improves lubricity which improves patterns, velocity, and penetration to a small degree, while also potentially protecting the barrel.
Bismuth in general is able to deform on impact breaking bones and causing more damage than steel which is more prone to bouncing. Add the copper plating to the bismuth and you have multiple factors that increase lethality against ducks and geese and all winged game. Also, BOSS does make a copper plated tungsten TSS shell for turkey hunting call BOSS Tom, for which I also did a full review like this one.
Patterning
BOSS also engineers their loads to maximize performance with the average shotgun and choke tube combination, providing ideal and easy to tune patterns for short, medium, and long ranges. My many pattern tests put BOSS at about a 72% pattern density with a 3% +/- at 40 yards with a tight choke. Which is perfect for me, and most hunters.
Yes, other bismuth brands like Kent and Winchester use shot cups and wads geared for tighter patterns, up to 90% at 40 yards, but those are only ideal for long range hunting, pass shooting, and shooting at birds on the water at long range. They are too tight for normal ranges and need very open chokes to be effective at short range. BOSS comes tuned to pattern well for the average hunter and gear setup and is flexible for a variety of specialty applications. But if you want to shoot ducks on the water at 50 yards, Winchester and Kent Bismuth may provide some advantages with extra full chokes at excessive ranges. To each his own.
Cost Factors
BOSS Copper Plated Bismuth tends to be the most cost-effective bismuth load on the market. I have never seen another bismuth load cheaper in terms of cost per shell. And often prices fluctuate greatly for other bismuth brands based on demand and there may be price gouging.
BOSS’s prices are always stable because they only sell direct to consumer from their website. You can usually get free shipping if you order more than $100 of product, and I have teamed up with friends to share small orders in order to not pay for shipping. I am pretty much resigned to never pay for shipping on anything from anyone if I can avoid it. In my opinion, BOSS’s bismuth shotshells are the best balance of cost and performance on the market.
Shot Sizes & Loads
BOSS is a direct-to-consumer ammo company that only sells through its website. Some see this as a disadvantage but they are thinking too narrowly. Because of this, BOSS is able to have more sku’s than any other duck or goose hunting ammo company that sells through stores. They have about 26 different combinations for 12 gauge alone. And they have another 38 options in 10-gauge, 16-gauge, 20-gauge, 28 gauge, and .410. That is 64 options for different gauges, pellet sizes, payloads, etc. Whatever your desired shell is, they probably have it. No one else on the market can touch their variety.
And their specialty shell is the 12 gauge 2 3/4″ #5 with 1.25 ounces of shot. They recommend this as the best all-season option. It is the equivalent of the old standard lead waterfowl hunting loads of 2 3/4 #6 lead with 1.125 oz of shot. Low recoil, high pattern density, and high terminal ballistic energy. In fact BOSS does not even sell a 3.5″ 12-gauge load. In their words it is totally unnecessary, “you cannot kill the ducks any deader” than you can with their 3″ 12-gauge shells. I couldn’t agree more actually, but then again I am the guy who produced the video: Why You Should NOT Hunt With 3.5″ Shotgun Shells.
Feild Tests
I do believe I have done more BOSS Bismuth field test videos than anyone else on all of YouTube, including BOSS themselves. I am not sponsored by BOSS or compensated in any way by them to do this review. I have just been a long-standing fan, and someone who is fascinated with their product and wants to test it against everything I can to learn more about it and how it really performs. In fact, the reason I bought my first block of ballistics gel was simply to see how much better BOSS was than the steel loads I had been using. I just decided to record that testing because I thought others would be interested also.
I have ballistics gel tested and pattern tested BOSS Shotshells against many of their chief competitors who make steel, premium steel, bismuth, and tungsten alloy waterfowl hunting loads. You can find all of my BOSS related videos on my YouTube Channel.
BOSS does not always have the best pattern. And sometimes they don’t have the best penetration either, compared to metals that are even heavier than lead. However, BOSS has always beaten the competing loads in one or more areas, and sometimes all areas. The consistent performance and lower relative cost puts BOSS at the top of my list. For even more info, check out my podcast episode: All About Shotguns and Shells for Duck Hunters.
Hunting With BOSS
For the last two years I have hunted with BOSS Bismuth #5, #4, #3/5, and #2 shot. Each one has been an excellent performing shell and done everything I have asked of it. People often ask what my favorite shot size is for BOSS and for me and what I hunt, that would be the #4. I think it is the best all-around load with ballistics energy approximately equal to steel #1 shot. However, I prefer the BOSS #5 for early season hunting of pretty much everything, the #2 for late season goose hunting. The #3/5 is a great load also and I did afull video testing the #3/5 against the #4.
I also have no hesitation to use BOSS Bismuth for hunting pheasants, doves, crows, and anything that flies. I just use 1 size larger shot than the lead size I would normally use, and I do not feel any handicap at all.
Pros & Cons
The Pros:
Superior density compared to steel
Copper plating improves performance in several categories
Designed for use in the most common applications, you cannot mess it up
Softer material allows you to use old barrels and guns not rated for steel
Best priced bismuth option on the market
Still similar in price to premium steel options and blends like HEVI-Hammer
Tested and rated for velocity at 40-degrees Fahrenheit unlike many other who rate at an unrealistic 70 degrees
No plastic, flax, buckwheat or other fillers mixed into the shot
Coolest looking shell on the market. That counts for something!
More shot and load sizes and options than all of their competitors combined
Order a case and you get the BOSS moneybag, which is now my favorite way to carry shells into the field
The Cons:
Not cheap, no matter how you slice it.
Not the best load for ultra-long range at 50 yards, at least not in my gun/chokes
You can’t get them in a store at the last minute, you have to order before you need them
Final Analysis
Why am I big proponent of BOSS? Because I’ve done 27 tests and it just works. It pattens well, it has outstanding ballistics gel penetration. It enables me to shoot ducks in the air or on the water at 40 yards reliably, and it does the job. When I go hunting, I do not want to think about my ammo. I spend the off-season testing, patterning, comparing, and doing all the leg work so when I walk into a hunt I only need to think about the hunt, and I am confident that if I do my part then BOSS will do its part. To see how BOSS stacks up against other Bismuth brands, check out this article I did: Best Bismuth Shotshells Review | BOSS, Kent, Winchester, HEVI.
I feel more confident than I ever did with steel, and I like that I can always order more ammo at any size and specs, and I do not have to go to a dozen stores to find exactly what I want. Yes, BOSS costs more than steel, but for me it’s well worth it. For you, that depends on your budget, style, and what you value. This review was for the BOSS Legacy Load, check out this review of the BOSS Warchief. As a note, over the years BOSS has sent me some shells at my request for reviews, many others I bought with my own money.
Till next time. God bless you, and go get em in the woods!
George Konetes Ph.D. – Founder and Host of the New Hunters Guide.
The New Hunters Guide is simply what George wishes he would have had when learning how to hunt; a single place to get practical hands on knowledge about different kinds of hunting, gear, strategy, and tips that can improve your comfort and fun factor in the woods.
This season I have heard of people making the same mistakes over and over when picking their deer hunting spot. Now that the rut is here, it is time to correct that error and pick much better and more productive hunting spots, be them on the ground or in a tree stand. On this episode I go in depth to explain this big mistake and the many ways you can improve your hunt by correcting it.
Where you setup make a big difference when it comes to taking game. It is the single most strategic decision you can make. Picking a spot where you can see deer is not the same as picking a spot where you can take deer. You have got to focus 100% on the latter. Seeing deer does nothing to put venison in the freezer.
Always focus on selecting stand and blind locations where you can take deer home. And as more hunters begin to fill the woods you need to also take into account how their activities impact deer movement and help or hurt you. Always work to leverage their activity to your advantage as well.
Listen to the podcast episode to hear the one huge tip!
The only good thing about a terrible hunt is when you can learn from it and help other people avoid what happened to you. On this episode I talk about the worst duck hunt of my life and how I wish I had known the answer to a very important question before I went into the woods: how do you humanely and quickly dispatch a live duck that makes it into your hands?
No matter how much you practice, how tight your choke tube, or how good your ammunition, there will be times when you wound or cripple a duck that needs finished off. The hunter’s goal should be to kill the duck as quickly and humanely as possible to minimize suffering and ensure the duck does not get away for prolonged suffering.
Not knowing how to do this led me through a traumatic series of events that became the worst duck hunt of my life. Had I heard this simple podcast episode first, it would have saved me so much trouble and saved a duck much more suffering as well.
How to prepare for a black bear hunt hinges upon how the battlefield is chosen. If you are hunting locally and you can pick the area, conditions, and weather then selecting gear is very easy. But if you are traveling to an unfamiliar battle ground, there are many unknowns and things you need to take into account. In this episode I talk about making bear hunting preparations for those newer to the sport.
Show Notes:
Most people do not start hunting bear as the first game they ever pursue, they have at least some experience hunting something else first, maybe deer, turkey, waterfowl or small game. Those skills can form the foundation of hunting knowledge you needto get started as you seek to add bear specific knowledge to your toolbox. I have done many other episodes focused on helping you build that knowledge base check those out.
The gear you need to hunt bear is almost entirely dependent on the location, weather, and strategy you use. Your deer hunting gear could be perfect. Or you may want gear more focused towards elk hunting. Alot of different types of gear can work if you know how to be resourceful and creative with your setup. Cheap gear can do a lot more than many people give it credit; however, you need to use that cheap gear differently.
For example, if you have cheap boots and cheap socks, you can get by better if you bring several changes of socks and two pair of boots. This will help keep your feet fresh, warm, and blister free. If you have cheap base layers, you can stretch their capabilities by bringing asecond pair with you to rotate at mid-day to keep you dry, warm, and reduce chaffing.
When it comes to firearms, a lot of rifles will work just fine. You want something that you can accurate shoot out to 150-200 yards and has enough power at that range to bring down a black bear quickly. For example, a 30-30 is just a bit light at range, but still just fine close up. A .308 is perfect, a 30-06 is just as a perfect, as is a .270, 7mm magnum, and many other chamberings.
I foundHigh ‘N Dry wadersafter an extensive and exhausting search for a new pair of quality chest waders for waterfowl hunting. I bought my first pair 3 duck seasons ago and they instantly became my favorite company in the waders industry. Now I have both their breathable and neoprene waders as well as their B2 base layers and this review will include insights into all of them, as well as tackling the question; are breathable or neoprene waders better?
As a note, High N’ Dry gave me the breathable waders to review, thanks to them for their support. I bought the neoprene waders with my own money.
The Research Phase
I spent months looking at waders when I was ready for new ones. I looked at so many brands and designs and features that my head was spinning. There was only one constant, I could not find a single thing that was up to my quality standards. I sifted through hundreds of waders and the best of them had only mediocre reviews. I looked at cheap waders, mid-grade, expensive and premium waders, and nothing seem to last long. A service life of 1-2 seasons was the average, almost nothing made it through 3 seasons and I wanted better. To hear more about the challenges and difficulties of finding good waders check out my podcast episode All About Duck Hunting Waders.
I gave up looking for duck hunting waders and began looking for commercial and industrial grade waders. I decided if the hunting industry did not produce waders that were durable enough then I would look into other industries. That is what lead me to discover High ‘N Dry. The founders of the company had roots as commercial watermen, farming oysters and clams. They were working in their waders all day, hundreds of days a year. They also couldn’t find commercial grade waders that were durable enough for the job so they decide to make their own. Being avid waterfowl hunters, they decided to also make the waders in various camouflage patterns and brought them to market.
I reached out to High ‘N Dry and asked them a series of questions about their products and they were the first company that had impressed me. I had developed a gold standard I wanted in waders so I asked them my big question: Will your waders last me 50 hunts over 5 years with responsible use and care? They did not hesitate to say that was a very reasonable expectation on my part. So I gave them my money. It’s been 3 seasons since that day, and that first pair of waders is not showing any signs of wearing out yet.
What Is Unique About High ‘N Dry?
I can sum that up in two words, durability, and boots. High ‘N Dry’s waders just keep working. They don’t wear out, they don’t wear through, they don’t come apart at the seams, they don’t dry rot, they don’t leak, they just keep working. My experience with the neoprene and the breathables is the same thus far. They are rugged well-constructed waders. The breathable waders have 4 layers of materials with multi-layer seam sealing technology. The Neoprene waders have a single seam construction with 6-layer seam sealing technology. However, nothing is indestructible, you can destroy them, more on that later. But they don’t seem to fail under any circumstances on their own, even after years.
The boots are also unique. They have 55% rubber reinforced boots with 800g or 1500g equivalent of synthetic insultation. Simply put, the boots are real boots. They are like putting on my Muck boots. They are not half shell boots, moon boosts, stocking foot boots, or any other cheap wader boot that only has insulation around you toes. The whole boot is insulated, the whole boot is warm, and it is strong, comfortable, has arch support and you can walk for miles in them. I don’t recommend walking miles in any waders, but I’ve had to do it and the boots are up to the task. They also have great grip and strong soles. Just 3 days before writing this review I did a morning hunt when it was 38 degrees Fahrenheit and we were sitting in 10″ deep water for hours. I had on only the 800g boots and my feet never got cold.
High ‘N Dry Neoprene Wader Review
I bought theHigh ‘N Dry Neoprene Wadersfirst, in bottomland camo with 1600g boots. I wanted the warmest and more durable waders possible for the late season. And wow did they deliver with 5mm neoprene construction with Kevlar reinforced knees. Now any 5mm neoprene is going to keep you warm, it is a super insulator. Coupled with the aforementioned boots and they are outstanding. The coldest I’ve hunted in them was 7 degrees Fahrenheit. And let me tell you. That is brutal cold. But the waders were more than up for the task and we took home ducks that day. I have broken brush with them, I have stomped holes in inch thick ice. And I have braved mud so thick and sticky that you felt like it would tear your foot right off. Never had an issue. Check my High ‘N Dry Neoprene Waders Video Reviewas well.
High ‘N Dry Neoprene Chest Wader Features:
Neoprene reinforced knees with exterior Kevlar® protection
5mm neoprene body with limited, single-seam construction
Six-layer seam sealing technology
Available in Mossy Oak® Shadow Grass Blades, Mossy Oak® Bottomland, and Brown
Additionally, I can say the suspender straps are comfortable and durable and the clips are very nice. For cold weather applications these waders are the best of the best. I cannot recommend them highly enough. It is true they are not super cheap, but their only competitors cost 2-3 times as much and give no additional performance benefits. The only downside is the nature of neoprene waders, they are heavy and bulky. It is just a bulky material. You need that when it’s cold but in the early season it can be a bit much. Which lead me to try their breathable waders.
High ‘N Dry Neoprene Wader Review
As much as I like the neoprene waders, I wanted something more manageable for the early season, so I set my sights on the arguably even more innovativeHigh N’ Dry Breathable Waders. And wow, they were everything I dreamed they would be, light, flexible, strong, and more comfortable when it was 60 degrees+ outside. I was thoroughly impressed by the construction, every seam and weak point is reinforced. The area’s most likely to fail have extra layers, extra protection, Kevlar armor, and more. They are made to last. My favorite feature is that I can pack them into a backpack with the boots sticking out the top and walk miles into the woods to jump hunt and then pull my waders out and put them on if I hit a duck. That is pretty much impossible with neoprene.
High ‘N Dry Breathable Chest Wader Features:
Neoprene reinforced knees with exterior Kevlar® protection
Four-layer breathable fabric
Sonic Welded; Multi-layer seam sealing technology
Available in Mossy Oak® Shadow Grass Blades, Mossy Oak® Bottomland, and Brown
Thinsulate™ + Neoprene + Synthetic Wool insulation in two boot options = 800g & 1500g eq.
55% natural rubber reinforced boots
Exterior rainproof pocket, interior zippered pocket, reach through chest pocket
Men’s sizes 7-15 in Regular, Stout, Tall and B.I.G.
Uninsulated Upper to allow optimum comfort thru layering
The breathable waders are also easier to dry and move around in. I can put them so quickly in the field as well, which I have to do regularly when jump hunting creeks, so the downed ducks are not swept downstream. The engineering on these is very impressive. Neoprene also tends to be a little more durable than breathable waders and can stand up to a little bit more abuse. Here is my neoprene chest waders review video.
Wader Repair
No waders last forever. High ‘N Dry will be the first ones to tell you that. But they should last for years and they should not fail before their time. That said, if you walk into sharp things at high speed, have knife accidents, fall onto jagged rocks, or any other of the many high impact things waterfowlers do, you can cut, puncture or tear your waders. And that is no problem. High ‘N Dry has a proprietary relationship with 3M and sells 4000 UV Marine Grade Sealant in black.Put this on this on both sides of the puncture and you are good to go within 24 hours. It is flexible, leak proof, strong, and long lasting. I did once charge into a jagged spear of a stick that we used to make a blind near dawn suffering from sleep deprivation and poked a hole in the outer layer of my neoprene. The 3m stuff left it stronger than it was before.
Bells & Whistles
If High ‘N Dry is criticized for anything it is their lack of bells and whistles. Both neoprene and breathable waders have a pocket or two with a couple of clips that you could attack things like hand warming muff to. That is it. No removable insulating layers, no dozens of pockets inside or outside, no built-in safety whistle, no shotgun shell loops, no duck call holders, no carabiners, no tool holders, nothing. And I am so thankful for that. The wader industry has been trying so hard for years to take cheap waders with moon boots that only last a season and a half and dress them up with all kinds of fancy features you do not really need instead of just making good waders. And here is the thing, the more gizmos you add, the more potential failure points in the construction there are.
For me, waders are tool, like hammer or wrench. You want them to do their one job well, every time, forever. My hammer doesn’t need a cup holder or a rear-view mirror. I do not want any of that stuff that makes the waders heavier and cost more, I just want quality durable waders that keep me dry and last a long time. That is it. I do not want removable insulation on waders that don’t make it through two seasons. I can wear more layers if it’s cold. I can get neoprene waders if it’s really cold. I want every dollar of the purchase price to go into quality material and construction, and that is what High ‘N Dry does. It is like they read my mind.
High ‘N Dry B2 Base Layers Review
This season I got aSet of the B2 Base Layersas well. You can also buy just the quarter zip hoody or bottoms. These layers are so nice, especially for the early season. They are designed and cut to be worn under waders, so they don’t bunch up where you don’t want them to and they have heel stirrups and thumb loops so you can get them into your wader boots without them riding up and slide your arms through outer layers. They also wick away moister and dry quickly, especially when paired with the breathable waders. They are nice and warm as well. With the hoody, my favorite part is the built in facemask that you can seemingly pull out of nowhere to cover you face with a great camo breathable layer. My biggest complaint is that they do not come in full camo, I found that I would have worn them alone on some of warmer days during this year’s early season.
Quarter Zip Features:
DWR Treated fabric: Durable Water Resistant to shed light rain and mist
Moisture wicking
Internal face mask/neck gator
Thumb loops
Magnetic chest pocket
Hood
Athletic fit
YKK Zippers
Bottoms Features:
DWR Treated fabric: Durable Water Resistant to shed light rain and mist
Moisture wicking
Heel stirrups
Draw string closure
Athletic fit
Side pockets
These are marketed as mid layers/base layers. I find the pants have enough room that I can wear a nice base layer under them when its that cold, the quarter zip doesn’t have enough room for that. So order a size larger than you normally wear if that is your plan. Else it fits well as a next to skin layer and both are very comfortable for that job with lofty polar fleece and spandex added to the material. They are high quality smart layers with lots of little features that are very nice.
What Is Better, Neoprene or Breathable Waders?
This is a very easy question for me to answer now that I have the highest quality and most durable neoprene and breathable waders on the market to compare them. It depends on when, where, and how you hunt.
For the early season or any mild climate, the breathable waders are the best tool.
For cold weather, breaking ice, and late season hunts, the neoprene waders are the best tool.
If you want to put the waders in an easy to carry backpack and go jump hunting, then you want breathable waders.
If you are hunting thick, dense stuff that puts a lot of wear on your gear, you want neoprene because it’s a little thicker and more durable.
If you get cold easy, get neoprene.
If you are prone to running hot all the time, get breathables.
If you are prone to running out of energy quickly, get the lighter breathables.
If you walk far in your waders, on land or in the stream, get the breathables.
If you spend alot of time standing or sitting in cold water, get the neoprene.
The best answer is you should get both, so you have the best the tool for every hunt. But most people, like myself, are only buying one at a time so you need to pick which one is best for you to start with. For me, and how I hunt, and what is most important to my area and needs, I think the breathable waders are the better tool for more days of the season. But you have to decide which is best for you. The neoprene is a little less expensive, that’s a noteworthy factor as well. And if you are looking for a good inexpensive waterproof jacket to wear with these in the rain, check out my review of the TideWe Rain Suit, it was completely waterproof at a very low price point.
The Final Analysis
I thinkHigh ‘N Drymakes the best waders on the market right now. And no, they are not paying me to say that. They may cost a little more than some other brands, but I believe they will last ALOT longer. Your cost per season should be much lower with High ‘N Dry because you can go more seasons without having to replace your waders. And they are more comfortable, more usable, and enjoyable for all of those seasons than most of their competitors.
Till next time. God bless you, and go get em in the woods!
George Konetes Ph.D. – Founder and Host of the New Hunters Guide.
The New Hunters Guide is simply what George wishes he would have had when learning how to hunt; a single place to get practical hands on knowledge about different kinds of hunting, gear, strategy, and tips that can improve your comfort and fun factor in th
As a note, High N’ Dry gave me the breathable waders to review, thanks to them for their support. I bought the neoprene waders with my own money.
