How To Hunt Turkeys On Small Properties | Winning With Limited Acres

Everyone wants to hunt turkeys on endless thousands of acres of unpressured land, but the reality is often far from that. Some people only have access to small properties, sometimes just a few acres. Can you really hunt turkeys on small parcels and find success? The short answer is of course. But you cannot hunt those small properties the same way that you hunt large properties, you need specific strategies and tactics for small land.

There are two main approachs that I am going to cover in this article for hunting gobblers on small properties. The first is your traditional scout and hunt, just like you might do on public land, but with limited space. The second assumes you can enhance the property to draw more turkeys and make the most of a tiny parcel. If you are looking for information on how to start hunting turkeys, check out this article I wrote: How To Hunt Spring Turkeys – A Practical Beginners Guide.

How Small Can A Property Be To Hunt Turkeys?

You can hunt turkeys on properties as small as one acre. It’s not easy, but you can do it. And since you don’t have to track a turkey after a good hit, you can shoot and recover it in a very small area. I consider a property small if it is between 1-40 acres. At that size you are unable to run and gun much, you likely have limited locations you can setup, and your ability to move and use terrain to your advantage is going to be limited. So, most of these tips are going to be aimed at properties in that size range. Want more info on this subject on the go? Download my podcast episode: How to Hunt Turkey’s on Small Properties. 

First Thing – Are There Turkeys?

Whether you have 1 acre to hunt or 1,000 acres, there is a common truth. There must be turkeys there if you are going to successfully hunt them. The advantage of larger properties is there are higher odds that they will hold turkeys, but you still need to find them. Small properties have their own kind of advantage and that is you can more easily scout a small area and look for turkey sign.

You need to scout. Not just to find out if turkeys are on the property you plan to hunt but to figure out how they are using that property and when. The four best ways to do this are by walking around stealthily before the season and looking for tracks, droppings, scratches, features, etc. The second is with binoculars from a distance and the third is by using trail cameras. Number four might cost you some sleep, but if you get out there before dawn and listen for gobbling you can learn ALOT.

If you can find the birds you can hunt them. Things are not necessarily over if you do not have turkeys actively on your property. The beauty of turkey hunting is you can call birds in from other places. But that is harder to do and it is hard to scout those other places if you do not have permission to hunt there. Your ears and binoculars are going to be the tools available to you. For more, check my podcast episode: How To Find A Great Turkey Hunting Spot.

Seasonal Turkey Occupancy

People have a notion that turkeys in the winter means turkeys in the spring, or turkeys in the fall means the birds will be there when the weather warms back up. In truth, today’s turkey behavior may give no useful indication about where they will be a couple months from now. The reason is that turkeys move, they cover ground, they look for what they need right now.

Turkey’s need different habitat at different times of the year. However, spring turkey locations this spring may be telling of where the birds will be next spring. If a property has good spring habitat, then it will likely be a place that is pleasing to turkeys every spring. Nothing is guaranteed but turkeys do tend to frequent old stomping grounds.  The same is true for other seasons, this year’s fall hotspot will likely be hot next fall too, but they may be nowhere near that area come spring.

So while I am scouting for turkey’s year-round, whenever I am in the woods, I know where I find them today may not help me find them in the spring. But the time I invest scouting around the spring season can pay dividends for future spring hunting seasons.

But I never Did It Like That Before…

If you do not have many acres to hunt, you may not be able to hunt the way you would prefer to. If you do not have big trees you may not be able to hunt sitting up against a tree like many turkey hunters. You will have to explore other ways to hunt that area. Bushes, blinds, and ground cover may need utilized. Terrain features, self-standing turkey chairs, or even pop-up blinds might be what you need.

If you cannot hunt the part of the property that is most likely to hold turkeys because it is not wooded, you do not have the luxury of just going somewhere else, you have to improvise. Keep in mind, the goal is to take turkey’s not to hunt your traditional way, or the way people do it on TV. Think outside the box, look for ways to use the land, the shadows, the elevation changes, anything you can to get a chance at a gobbler.

Learn Your Limits & How To Cheat Them

Property boarders are the arch nemesis of small parcel turkey hunters. Beautiful land divided up by invisible lines that dictate where you can and cannot go.  People often setup so that for a turkey to come into shotgun range, it will have to cross onto the land they are allowed to hunt. They setup markers, mental notes, etc, and this is good, you MUST know the boundaries. But there are ways to cheat.

Sometimes being 60 yards back from the property line is too far back to finish the deal. Keep in mind you can move right up to the property line to call, you even go side to side along the border and then retreat back deeper into the property if you can get a bird’s interest. You can also call and then move along the border quietly and setup with your shotgun aiming parallel to the property line, ready to take a shot from the side as soon as a big tom walks on your property. Think in three dimensions and with some fluidity and you can expand your options. A good hunting map app like OnX Hunt or HuntWise can be very handy for knowing exactly where you can and cannot hunt, here is a written review where I compared both.

The Strategic Sit

The most commonly used turkey hunting method on little properties is the strategic sit. This involves scouting and working to learn the best place for turkeys to be on your property, the best place you can hide to hunt that place, and then sitting in ambush. You will call, but not likely move much or at all. This can feel more like deer hunting than turkey hunting, but it gets the job done. And truth be told, many turkey hunters prefer to hunt like this.

The strategic sit hinges on strategy. Picking the best spot and hunting it the best way possible. Your options are limited so long stealthy hunts are going to give you the best odds. But to power through those long hunts, you must have the concrete facts that only scouting can produce; that there are turkeys in the area. Whether you hear them or not. If the results of your scouting are poor then your motivation will be poor too. Good scouting produces good strategy, and strong drive to stick to the plan because you know you have a real chance to succeed. People often ask about decoy use. There is a time for decoys but often I think they can be a hindrance. For more, here is an article I did: How To Hunt Turkeys Without Decoys & Be Even More Successful.

It Almost Feels Like Cheating

Some people lament the use of a ground blind or pop-up blind for turkey hunting. I used to be one of them. But I became acquainted with the tool while hunting a very small property. I have since come to adore ground blinds for this kind of hunting because of the many advantages. Yes, I would rather be covering ground, going toe to toe to gobblers, using the terrain and everything I can to bag one. But if I am hunting a small property, the ground blind provides unparalleled concealment, comfort, and a different but fun way to hunt.

I like to use mesh on the windows of my ground blinds which offers even more concealment. I have found myself surrounded by turkeys when in a ground blind, birds within a few feet of me. The rush, the thrill, the learning, are very intense. I never get that close when sitting against a tree, at least not for long. But I’ve sat in the middle of feeding and dusting hens for half an hour, not moving a muscle, trying not to breath at all, not even wanted to blink so I do not spook them, while waiting for gobblers to appear.

I think the ground blind is a great tool, and it provides fun and excitement of a different kind than more active styles of turkey hunting. The beauty is we can have it all. You can travel to public land and cover miles, and you can sit in a blind on private land and not move a muscle while the birds come to you. We don’t have to pick; we can do both. For the last few seasons, I’ve been using a very large Barronett Ground Blind. This works good because I can easily fit two large adults with gear in it and it is very sturdy, the most durable blind I’ve yet to use. Blinds are always smaller than they sound, take the number of adults a blind is rated to fit and subtract one to get a more realistic estimate. 

The Wandering Gobbler

Sometimes you will hear gobblers at first light near or on your small property. Other times you will hear nothing at dawn but the birds may make their way to your location after a few hours. Sometimes there are no regular birds on or near your property that you can call in. But there is always hope. There is the wandering gobbler.

Gobblers pretty much never stop moving during the morning, they are always on the go, looking for hens, food, and more hens, sometimes they will wander outside of their regular patterns, even going miles in a day. These birds can come within ear shot of you, hear your occasional calling and come in for a visit. They may or may not gobble. They can come out of nowhere and are unpredictable. But they provide hope for all turkey hunters who cannot move to another spot. They also give a reason to continue calling from time to time, even when you do not hear a response. For more, here is a podcast episode I did on How To Hunt Silent Turkeys.

The Circuit

Just because you have a small property does not mean you cannot move. If you have at least a few acres you can establish some kind of circuit that you can walk from place to place or from property corner to corner and call for turkeys if there is no early gobbling or activity. This is in some ways similar to running and gunning but your goal is to reach out beyond the borders of your property as far as you can to draw birds in closer.

You will want to find or prepare travel routes that should let you move around the property quietly and behind cover. You will also want to identify good cover at each point you intend to stop, and call from incase a gobbler responds and begins to come in. The good news is that you can learn your land exceptionally well when you do not have much of it. You can learn every tree, every hill, every bush. You can get to a point where you walk your circle on autopilot with great stealth.

Does Moving Help?

Does moving around on a property really improve your odds of success? It depends. On 3 acres, probably not. moving around is likely a liability as you may spoke the birds you are hoping to attract. If you have 40 acres however, you may have several distinct spots you can stop and hunt and be able to locate gobblers that may have been out of call range from your home base spot. You may have birds on the property that you can move closer to or try to get in front of. Your options increase a lot when you have a few more acres.

I have walked a circle around a 12-acre property, calling at maybe 4 or 5 distinct locations only to sit down at my last point on the circuit and see a turkey within minutes that was excited by what it thought was a hen, making its way across the property. You do not want to move very fast when doing this, try to stay at turkey speed. You want to play the part; this kind of movement can do multiple things to get birds engaged. Check out this video I did for even more strategies to hunt small properties.

Ammo And Chokes For Small Properties

Typically, on a small property, you are not going to be able to take long range shots. You also want to keep the turkey and your shotgun pellets on the property you are permitted to hunt. So, you tend to take shorter shots, or as I call them, normal shots. Usually, you are shooting at turkeys at an average of 30 yards or so. To do this, I am going to prefer smaller pellets and milder turkey chokes. Maybe that is #6 lead or #9 TSS with your standard XX Full choke. I normally use Winchester Long Beard XR or BOSS Tom TSS, I did these full reviews on each.

You do not need ultra-tight chokes because the pattern can be too tight at close range, and you can miss. I like smaller pellets because you then have more of them and better odds of a quick humane finish. ALWAYS pattern your shotgun in advance and choose a load and choke that will let you effectively hunt the ranges your property affords you. The gold standard is to get 100+ pellets in a 10″ circle at the range you plan to hunt. If you can do that, your ammo and choke are perfect. And keep in mind, within 30 yards, nothing can kill a turkey any deader than cheap #7.5 target loads. You only need “turkey ammunition” for longer ranges. 

Improving Properties

If you own the property or have permission to improve the habitat, there is a lot you can do for minimal cost to make a small property more desirable to a turkey. You can both draw more turkeys and hold more birds throughout the season. It may take some work though.

In a given day, turkeys are going to want roosting trees, cover, open areas, dusting areas, strut zones, food, and water. The smaller the property, the fewer of these things you will be able to provide. But the more of them you do provide, the more draw your land can have for gobblers.

How To Improve Your Turkey Habitat

Roosting trees are either there or not. There is no short-term fix here. All you can do is seek to draw them to your large trees with the hopes of getting them to roost close by if possible. Cover and open areas can be facilitated. Turkeys like brush to hide and escape and open areas to feed and be able to see predators from afar. If you have lots of thick brush, then clearing some of it can help improve the draw.

If you have lots of woods, then taking down a half-acre of canopy can enable you to create a small patch of grass on one side with regeneration and cover on the other. Dusting areas and strut zones are harder to fabricate but they are often found in flat dry open areas with low vegetation. Toms want to be seen strutting, and good dust is often found in areas with bare sunbaked dirt. Create those and you give turkey’s more of what they like.

Water provides some benefit but only if there are no other easily accessed water sources within about a half mile. A stream, spring, creek, or even just a few puddles is all turkeys need, normally they only take one short drink per day, depending on their diet.  Food on the other hand is maybe the single biggest thing you can do to attract turkeys.

Food Plots & Clover For Turkeys

There are many things you can plant as food for turkeys that will drawn them to your property, but there is only one that I recommend as a starting point for new hunters and that is white clover. Clover is easy to plant, and you do not need any heavy equipment. All you need to do is create bare dirt. This can be done with a lot of determination and a weed eater with a big pack of heavy line. It can also be done chemically with Roundup and similar products, a few applications in the spring and summer can create a perfect place to plant for the fall.

You do not need to plant acres and acres of clover, in fact just a 1/4 of an acre can make a big difference. For the last few years I’ve been using Imperial Whitetail Clover, which I think may be the best seed out there, and for a small food plot it can be very inexpensive. Even just 1/10 of an acre can help.  For a micro plot like that, you’ll need $10 of clover seed and $20 of pelletized lime. 

The best part about clover is it grows back every year and provides high protein forage during the spring turkey season. It also works great as a grass that attracts bugs for turkeys to eat, and it is fairly low in the spring, giving the birds a nice open area. So you get multiple benefits. Deer like it a lot as well. For more, listen to my podcast episode: Turkey Hunting Food Plot Basics.

Conclusion & Recommendations

A small property can be a great place to hunt turkey’s, especially if you are able to add some food and improve the habitat. Even a micro property can be a place you can take turkeys. The most important thing you can do is keep your mind open, think outside the box, and think beyond the season. You need to do everything possible to stack the deck in your favor. And that means scouting, strategy, and habitat improvements. 

I have taken lots of turkeys on smaller pieces of land and I have come to really enjoy this style of turkey hunting. In fact, I now enjoy it just as much as I do hunting big public land. Each is fun and has its own pros and cons. I hope this article equips you to make the most of the opportunities you have available and have the most possible fun hunting turkeys!

Be sure to listen to The New Hunters Guide Podcast and check us out on YouTube. 

Till next time. God bless you, and go get em in the woods!

George Konetes Ph.D. – Founder and Host of the New Hunters Guide.

The New Hunters Guide is simply what George wishes he would have had when learning how to hunt; a single place to get practical hands on knowledge about different kinds of hunting, gear, strategy, and tips that can improve your comfort and fun factor in the woods.

EP230 How To Get 3 Ducks Hunts Into 1 Day

If you have a whole day to hunt ducks, why only hunt them in the morning? The truth is you can cram three unique duck hunts into a single day if you live in the right area. On this episode I talk about how to do everything possible to take home a limit of ducks over the course of a day.

The morning hunt is the traditional one that most people identify with, sitting in a blind with decoys out in front and calling birds in. This is a great way to hunt, and effective in many places if you’ve done your scouting. But it is far from the only way. This is likely the best way to start the day though. Get out early and try to bring home a limit of ducks early. 

The mid-day hunt takes on a different form. Once you have packed things up and gotten something to eat, you can run and gun, cover ground, and work to sneak up on birds on ponds, streams, and other bodies of water. This can be just as effective if you know the water in your area and have put together a good circuit.

The evening hunt is your last chance but it provides a good chance to get it done. The premise here is you have a whole day to hunt and do not want to go home empty handed or shorthanded. Hunting at the end of the day can be just as productive as any other time.

Listen to the episode to hear about all 3 hunting strategies for an all-day hunt. 

Sitka Fanatic GORE-TEX Wind Stopper Beanie Review

I landed on the Sitka Fanatic Wind Stopper Beanie when I was looking for the warmest piece of hunting headwear on the market. I wanted something warm, windproof, waterproof, quiet, and with one other prized feature I’ll mention later. At the time, this was Sitka’s highest-level beanie, and no other company I could find produced something in the same class. It is unique in that it is a very quiet GORE-TEX beanie. Those qualities do not typically go together.  However, it is not as water resistant as most GORE-TEXT hats, so there is a tradeoff.

I bought this beanie with my own money a few seasons ago, but I do earn from qualifying purchases using links to their site, thanks to them for their support.. My main intention for the beanie was whitetail deer hunting, but I have probably worn it waterfowl hunting even more. This is a very nice hunting hat, about as nice as they come. Sitka now makes a few other equally rated beanies for various pursuits, but nothing has replaced the Fanatic WS Beanie for deer hunting. I wanted to give you more than just my opinions as well, so I did an experimental test using this beanie and others and included the data in this review.

Review Context

This is a real review after hunting with this beanie for a few seasons. These are not just my topline thoughts after unboxing it, doing a video and returning it without ever taking it into the field like so many reviewers do. I am going to give you the nitty gritty, the good and the bad. Some might think I am splitting hairs, but those thinking about spending $90 on a beanie should split every hair they can. That is a lot of money for a hat.

Is the Sitka Fanatic Wind Stopper Beanie perfect? No, it certainly is not. Is it the best hunting beanie out there? For some hunters it will be, for others it is worth having in their toolbox, and for some they will want to explore other options. When doing my own research, I found a lot of reviews that basically just said this beanie is warm and windproof. This thing better be warm and windproof, that is in the name of the product after all. I wanted more information than that and you should to, so here you go.

Features

I couldn’t bring myself to just copy and paste all of the features from the product description, the marketing is just over the top. So here is a more realistic features list. Obviously, this review is not sponsored. I like the hat, but I’m not going to hype it up.

  • The beanie has a high loft Berber polyester fleece face and fleece lining which makes it soft and quiet inside and outside.
  • It has GORE-TEX Infinium Wind stopper fabric which they say is 100% windproof to keep the wind out and your body heat in. (And it is windproof, so long as the hat isn’t too large to create gaps)
  • There is a DWR Finish (Durable Water Repellant) that resists light precipitation and prevents the face fabric from wetting out. More on this later.
  • There is a 4-way stretch ear band that fits the shape of your head with ear ports, so your hearing isn’t compromised (much).
  • Primaloft Silver Insulation adds the warmth of down but also keeps you warm even if it gets wet. If you are unsure about what makes Primaloft desirable, I did a whole podcast episode talking about this and other insulations titled: Making Sense Of Insulation For Hunting Gear.
  • It has Sitka’s Optifade Elevated II camo pattern which is designed for close range whitetail deer archery hunting from a tree stand in the late season. It works good for other things too though. More on that later as well.
  • Full size design the completely covers your ears and top part of your neck.

My #1 Favorite Feature

Now on to my absolute favorite feature that sealed the deal for me with Sitka Fanatic Beanie. It comes in medium/large or large/XL and the bigger of the two sizes gives me plenty of room to wear something UNDER it. Why would you want to wear something under such a warm beanie? Because at -10 degrees Fahrenheit no beanie is enough and even in milder temperatures, I want to wear a facemask. I most often turn to my First Lite Tundra Balaclava, which is the single best piece of head warming gear I have ever found, I did a full YouTube review on it as well. Or you might opt for something a little lighter like the First Lite Furnace 350 merino wool beanie which is essentially a base layer for your head. 

Adding some merino wool under the Fanatic Beanie is a great thing to do. In any event, I want something that covers my face and neck when it’s really cold. So, if it is cold enough to wear the Sitka Fanatic Beanie, I am going to wear something under it almost every time. The biggest issue I’ve found with the other super cold beanies on the market is they just are not big enough to comfortably fit something sizable underneath them. Which to me defeats the purpose.

You should expect any company’s coldest weather beanie to have enough room under it to wear it with a facemask. Sitka got it right. This is huge and it makes this beanie compatible with huge variety of other options to enable you to hunt just about any conditions you could imagine. 

Pros & Cons

You are going to see something here you do not often see, more cons listed than pros. I already said before that I am splitting hairs here. They need split and this is the place to do it. The pros outweigh the cons by a wide margin. But I want to mention all of the cons, small as they may be, because people need to know so they can make informed decisions. I am in favor of this hat, the pros are obvious, but for some reason many reviews pretend there are no cons, so I’ve given them more space here.

Pros

  1. This beanie is very warm. The fleece itself is warm and the Primaloft Insulation takes it up a notch higher still. This is part of what sets this beanie apart from the rest of its competitors.
  2. This thing is windproof, which for me is a nonnegotiable for late season hunts. It doesn’t matter what it is made of, if the wind blows right through it.
  3. It does a good job keeping you dry both from precipitation and perspiration. I have worn it in pouring rain and done just fine.
  4. The camo pattern is good, though I don’t think it can live up to the marketing hype.

Cons

  1. I wish it had a brim, you do not realize how much that helps keep the sun out of your eyes, even on cloudy days. Though you could wear a ball cap underneath to give you a brim, if you are into that.
  2. The cost is high, more than almost every other beanie made by every other company. You do get more features than any other beanie though, but you pay for them.
  3. The beanie is so large and thick that depending on how you wear it, it can cut into the edges of your field of view. It’s part of the price you pay for a super thick cold weather hat.
  4. It is water resistant, but it is not entirely waterproof. Yes, it has a GORE-TEX layer that will keep rain from reaching your head, but it has a fleece exterior which eventually will become waterlogged, heavy, and no longer help to insulate you. This has not yet caused me a significant problem, but I assume their thought process is that this is for days colder than 32 degrees when you have snow instead of rain. It works perfect then. But I also wear it hunting in the rain and it does the job but that isn’t exactly what it was built for.
  5. I just have to call it like it is, this thing looks goofy on your head.  It is just not the most stylish piece of hunting headwear. And that is ok. It is a big bulky hat that is bent on performance at all costs.

Test Results

After I got this beanie, I decided I really wanted to know if the price I paid was worth it. So, I decided to do some real testing and see if I could generate some data. So, I ran an experiment and pit this beanie against everything else I could get my hands on. For the test, I filled several disposable coffee cups with boiling water and then put the beanies over top of them outside on a freezing day. Every 10 minutes I came back to measure the temperatures to see which beanie kept the water the warmest. I then graphed the trend lines to see how the beanies compared over time and which was the winner. 

I will put the video below so you can see the whole experiment, but let’s just say if the Sitka Fanatic Beanie did not perform well, I wouldn’t be writing this review, nor would I still be using the beanie. 

Ideal Uses

The Sitka Fanatic Beanie was designed for winter deer hunting, especially from a tree stand at close range. The camouflage, the features, everything was designed for that particular purpose. It helps you blend into barren trees and skyline. However, it works great for many more types of hunting as well. And if you are going to spend this much on a beanie, you will likely want to get more use out of it. Obviously, anything you would hunt from a tree stand in the late season is going to be a perfect fit. But you can wear this beanie on the ground too.

I have found it works great for duck and goose hunting. As I mentioned, it is better in the snow than the rain, but it does the job. When it’s really cold in the late season this thing blends into the frozen vegetation just great.

This hat is perfect for hunting predators in the winter, especially at night when its fridged and the wind is brutal. It gives you just about everything you could want for those scenarios. 

It is likely more than you need for active hunting like pheasants, grouse, small game, etc. You probably want something lighter and cooler if you are walking all day, so your hat doesn’t get soaked in sweat. Yes, this beanie is breathable and will dry, but it can only dry so fast and if you just keep sweating you will always be wet. 

The Cheapest Place To Buy

So what is the cheapest place to buy the Sitka Fanatic Wind Stopper Beanie?  Well, I have done a bunch of research on this, and my conclusion is that it is not about where you buy but when you buy. Everyone pretty much has the same price all the time. But every so often this beanie goes on sale. I have seen it listed for as much as 20% off. 

A couple times per year Sitka runs or allows sales, and those sales are usually across many or most retailers. So, when it’s on sale, it is on sale pretty much everywhere. I recommend trying the beanie on in a store to get the size and fit you like, and then wait until it’s on sale and then order it from the retailer that gives you the best shipping, points, and return policy. For me that is usually Amazon, unless I could catch it on sale in person in a store. But you do you.

Summary & Recommendations

So, what is the final analysis? I think this a great beanie. The Sitka Fanatic Beanie does almost everything I want it to do, more than any other beanie I know of right now. It might or might not be the best artic level hunting beanie for you, but hopefully I gave you enough information so you can tell if it’s a good option for your hunting style and needs.

If you want to pair this beanie with some other good options, I have done similar reviews for the Cabela’s MT050 Whitetail Extreme Bibs & Parka and the First Lite Furnace 350 Merino Base Layers. I have been using these as part of my super cold weather gear system and they work really well. If it’s not apparent, I only do reviews on gear I really like, it is not worth my time to write or do videos about stuff I don’t feel strongly about. So, if you see something I’ve done a review on, you can be pretty sure it’s a quality piece of equipment that has found a place in my setup. 

Be sure to listen to The New Hunters Guide Podcast and check us out on YouTube. 

Till next time. God bless you, and go get em in the woods!

George Konetes Ph.D. – Founder and Host of the New Hunters Guide.

The New Hunters Guide is simply what George wishes he would have had when learning how to hunt; a single place to get practical hands on knowledge about different kinds of hunting, gear, strategy, and tips that can improve your comfort and fun factor in the woods.

EP229 Trophy Hunter vs. Butcher On How Long To Wait To Recover Deer

If you ask a trophy hunter and a butcher how long you should wait to recover a shot deer, you may get different answers. Each has different goals, and there are pros and cons to the advice of each. But you need to be aware of both sides to help determine what is best for you.

Here is the episode of mentioned about how to track a wounded deer.

Trophy Hunter. You’ve seen them on TV, YouTube or elsewhere; professional hunters who shoot truckloads of bucks every year. They have a very admirable quantity; they want to recover the deer at all costs. It is a good philosophy, one that many hunters need more of. But the big question is what do they define as recovering the deer? Recovering the antlers at all costs is one thing, recovering the meat is not the same thing.

Butcher. The deer processers and professional butchers are not often on TV, few people ask for their advice, and few people even think about what they have to say. Butchers do their job after the deer is recovered and professional hunters are recovering the deer so why talk to the butcher about it? The answer is obvious, the butcher will handle and process more deer than the professional trophy hunter ever will. No one cares more about the meat than the butcher and no one has more to say about when you should recover a deer than a good butcher.

Listen to this episode as I share insights I have gained after hearing from several professional butchers who are also hunters.

 

 

EP228 How To Hunt Deer In December

December can be one of the hardest months to hunt deer, but if you know how to leverage the unique elements of this phase of the season to your advantage, you can be very productive! On this episode I talk about what you need to know to have success hunting deer in December. 

Come December and the rut is over, bucks are worn out from the rut and spend most of the daylight hours bedded down resting and eating. Does find themselves scrambling to put on pounds for the winter. Deer are behaving differently and are harder to hunt. If that were not enough, many states place their firearms deer season at around this time frame putting tremendous hunting pressure on these deer.

Cover is also changing and as grass dies and leaves fall, the places deer can hide well become more and more scarce. Couple that with shorter and shorter days and deer can much more readily wait out the shorter daytime in order to move and feed at night. They become food focused and cover obsessed. By the second or third day of the hunting season, the entire deer herd can seem like it has become nocturnal. 

This is the most difficult time of the year to hunt whitetails. But hope is not lost. If you know what to do and how to hunt you can still find success and maximize the time you spend in the woods to get the best odds for your hours.

The trick is to know when and where to hunt. Because going to an October or November spot or hunting at September hours will not produce results as well in December. Deer can become like a different animal at this point in the season, some of it is natures timing and some is the result human pressure and influence. 

Listen to the podcast episode to get the tactics and strategy you need to make the most of December hunts.

EP227 7 Tips For Jump Hunting Ducks

Jump hunting ducks can be tons of fun, inexpensive, and a great way to use the middle of the day to bring home some birds. On this episode I share 7 keys for being more successful hunting ducks on foot. 

Jump hunting is the practice of trying to sneak up on ducks to get “the jump” on them. It involves stealth with the intent to get into position and then ambush birds on the water or flush them and to shoot them out of the air. 

Hunting ducks on foot dates back to the dawn of duck hunting. It is both challenging and effective and enables you to bring home ducks while requiring only minimal gear and time spent scouting. 

Your goal is to get as close to the birds as possible before taking a shot, within 30 yards is the target. It is easy to underestimate the distance, in fact most people do. So, you must get closer than what seems necessary, especially since birds will instantly flush and move further away from you the moment you are detected.

Using terrain to close that distance is key, this will help you avoid being seen or heard by the ducks. Another key factor is wind. Wind creates noise and motion in the woods, masking you approach. Then if you move when the wind blows you can become nearly invisible. 

When shooting at birds on the water you want a long-range range setup, ideally with a very tight choke tube and denser than steel shot. I like to use an extra full choke with bismuth shells. Steel can work just great at short to medium range but it loses a lot of power at long range. Bismuth retains energy further out enabling you to hit harder at range. 

Similar to turkey hunting, your goal is to hit the ducks in the head and neck so you want a very tight pattern with a lot of pellets. Bismuth #4 shot is ideal. HEVI XII in #6 works even better but is much more expensive. Consider carrying a handful of high-grade shells and a tighter choke just for these kinds of hunts.

Note, you do not want to use actual turkey loads and chokes because then you will not be able to shoot birds when they flush. But that kind of setup can work ok shooting geese on the water or the ground due to their long neck.

Listen to the podcast episode for all of the tips.

 

onX Hunt vs. HuntWise Review | Which Hunting Map App Is The Best

Hunting map apps have made things drastically easier for new hunters and all hunters really. Being able to clearly see where public land is, where each parcel border is, and who owns private property is incredibly helpful for scouting, hunting, and tracking game. And the top two apps in the space are onX Hunt and HuntWise.  So which one is the best?

That question is not easily answered. The two apps have a lot in common, but they have a lot that is unique as well. Each offers different features and different price points, I have used both for a couple years hunting deer, waterfowl, turkey, pheasants, crows, predators, and more. In this review, I will give you the strengths and weaknesses for each app to help you decide which is best for you. This review is NOT sponsored, and I have no relationship with either company. These are my unbiased observations from years of use. 

If you are new to hunting, I did another article that could also help you get going: How To Start Hunting As An Adult Without Help – Easy 15 Step Guide

onX Hunt Overview

The first major hunting app to gain market share seems to have been onX Hunt, one of the variants of onX Maps, a company that flavors their mapping engine around a variety of pursuits. I have been a paying customer of onX Hunt for around 5 years at this point. They are one of the only apps that I pay for.

The big focus of onX Hunt is their mapping. They are all about creating the best, easiest, most intuitive map experience with numerous options just beneath the surface that do not clutter or confuse the user. They have all of the standard info like property boarders, who owns the land, how much land there is, what game management unit it is, and lots of other info. In fact, they invented what the standard info is.

There are lots of other features packed in to onX Hunt like weather, wind direction, crop info, tree types, access routes, and dozens and dozens of map options, overlays, 3d maps, and location specific data points. You can go as deep as you want, or if you are like me, keep it nice and simple. There are extra tools to mark hunting spots, make notes, measure areas, and my favorite, a line distance tool to help you estimate distances. And much more. 

HuntWise Overview

HuntWise is a bit late to the party and has been trying to encroach upon onX’s market share. However, HuntWise did come to play. They have many of the standard features you will find with onX but they double down in one big specific area and that is weather and their feature called HuntCast.

HuntCast is their way of forecasting the best hunting days and times of day based upon the weather, time of year, breeding info, migrations, and various other factors for most types of game. I’ll talk more about this later. But if there is one big thing that sets HuntWise apart, this is it. And it is significant. They are trying to help you find the best day(s) of the year to hunt deer. I also did a podcast on this subject that can help you for free: The Best Day Of The Year For Deer Hunting?

There are also some other unique features like gear deals and a bit of a social network type environment for those interested in such things.  Their mapping engine looks and feels a little different, but it does many of the same things at a surface level. Overall HuntWise is a very robust app. 

How To Compare Both Apps

It is worth noting that neither app has a good concise comprehensive list of features, the list would be too long and too painful to read let alone try and compare with other apps. I hope to give you the specific details you need by synthesizing my actual use of these apps as I compare them section by section.

I am going to spare you the painfully intricate details of each app’s minute details and give you my general feedback instead. If you want to look through the magnifying glass at every option and feature, your best bet is to get a free trial of each app and run them side-by-side to see not just what they can do but how easy and intuitively each app can do it. But trying to do all of that in a review would be too tedious for me and for you.

For the sake of brevity, I am going to be very frank, but fair. Some of this is subjective and amounts to my own opinion after using the same tools in both apps. 

Maps & Layers

First and foremost, the mapping features for both apps are excellent and will do all that most people need and want. The biggest thing they do is help you find public land to hunt. Below is a video I did on the subject to help you beyond just a mapping app.

Is one better? I would say that onX Hunt does have slightly better mapping capabilities. It is not so much that their maps are better but that their mapping interface is more intuitive and less glitchy. I can find places and do what I need to do easer with onX Hunt than with HuntWise. Also, onX Hunt seems to work better on phones that are older or with slower processors.

Property Boarders & Info

Again, both apps are great and give you everything you need. Both show you where property boarders are, how much land there is, public or private land, who owns it, what wildlife management unit, ect.  This matters a lot when hunting near property boarders or on small parcels. Hunting on small properties has become a hot topic, here is a podcast episode I did that goes more in depth: How To Hunt Deer On Small Properties.

onX Hunt seems to have more consistent and reliable data but HuntWise sometimes has more data. So, it is a tradeoff. Is one really better than the other? I am going to say it is an even draw for this one.

Weather & Wind

Both apps provide current wind and weather data, as well as forecasted data for any parcel you want to look at.  They give you the ability to visually see the direction the wind is blowing and with what level intensity. HuntWise goes above and beyond though with their HuntCast feature. They show more granular data, further out, and it is more intuitively accessed. 

Both apps give you everything you need but HuntWise specializes in the weather and wind area and they have developed a better offering for that. 

Markers & Way Points

As you might expect, both apps let you mark stands, sign, locations, notes, etc. And both let you share that information with others. But I think onX Hunt does better in this area. They provide more features with more intuitive and less glitchy use than HuntWise does. onX Hunt also has the very simple but supremely useful line distance tool which I cannot find in HuntWise even after years of looking for it. If it’s there, it is definitely not intuitive. 

The line distance tool lets me scope out how far a hunting spot is to other houses, how far a hike might be, or how far I covered in a day if I retrace my steps. I use this tool all the time and I deem it critically important for my hunting style. It’s so helpful for determining if I am far enough from houses to hunt with a bow or firearm.  But even aside from this tool, onX Hunt still feels better in this category. 

HuntWise’s Gear Feature

HuntWise’s has some functionality that is unique to them such as their Gear tool. The gear tool is a really interesting idea that essentially compiles a list of discounts from HuntWise partners. The more expensive your plan is, the larger the discounts you have access to. It sounds pretty cool.

But in practice I have not been impressed with it. None of the deals have ever been helpful to me or they were the same or similar to other deals the companies were running anyway. HuntWise just compiles them for you. In my opinion it is of some benefit but not much. Certainly not worth upgrading your plan for.

HuntWise’s HuntCast Feature

HuntWise also has HuntCast. This feature is fairly impressive. You can select whatever you are hunting, deer, turkey, waterfowl, bears, etc. And the tool will forecast what coming days and time of day provide the best prospects for hunting that game. It considers weather data, breeding seasons, and more to calculate the days the times game is most likely to be moving. If you have the free version you can see two days out, and the more you pay the further out you can see, up to 2 weeks in advance.

Is HuntCase really accurate? In my experience, yes, as accurate as such predictions can reasonably be.  They double down on this feature for Whitetails, partnering with Jeff Sturgis, one of the most prolific authors and content creators on the subject to adapt his weather algorithm to the app. I have followed Jeff for years and consumed well over a thousand pieces of content from him and other researchers that he follows like Dr. John Ozoga. I boiled much of it down into a simple podcast episode you can listen to here: The Best Weather Days For Deer Hunting.

In short, Jeff Sturgis’s work predicting deer movement and optimal hunting days and times is the best I’ve seen or heard of on the subject. I have learned and been employing his weather algorithm for years now and with great success. HuntCast captures that, along with providing a library of videos from Jeff, directly in the app, to guide and equip deer hunters. This could be the single best tool on the market to help new hunters find the right times to hunt deer and learn how to hunt them more effectively. 

For me, it doesn’t really matter though because I have internalized these weather algorithms and the library of Jeff’s teachings. So HuntCast doesn’t add anything to me. But I know I am the exception and not the rule here. This is a great tool for the majority of hunters. I should mention that HuntCast is not as robust for all other game species outside of Whitetail Deer. They do not have as good of algorithms or industry leading experts infusing lifetimes of knowledge into any other game seasons like ducks, turkeys, bears, small game, etc.

How Much Do onX Hunt and HuntWise Cost?

This is the great equalizer between these two apps that provide various features. You might be thinking that HuntWise gives you more despite onX Hunt being better in some areas, and you would be right. But HuntWise also charges you more, alot more.  As of this writing the pricing is outlined below, I should also mention that I do not believe the prices have changed in the last couple of years, though there are periodic sales from both companies. 

  • onX Hunt sells for $30 a year for 1 state, or $50 a year for all states. 
  • HuntWise has a PRO plan that is $20 a month or $60 a year.
  • HuntWise also has an ELITE plan that gives you the full suite of whitetail deer hunting tools and longer HuntCast for $40 a month or $120 a year. 

So, at best you can get the cheap version of HuntWise for double what onX Hunt costs. However, if you want the PRO version, you probably want the ELITE version too and that is a lot of money to spend on an app. 

Conclusions & Recommendations

So which app provides the best mix of features for the cost? It is going to depend on what is most important and valuable to you. I currently only pay $30 a year for onX Hunt and now use the free version of HuntWise which has limited features, including only 2 days of HuntCast. I have had the full version in the past but $120 a year is just more than I am willing to pay for an app right now. And onX Hunt does everything I need and want.

For me, onX Hunt is better because its mapping and map features are a little better. The most compelling elements of HuntWise are not as compelling to me because I’m well studied in those areas. But I think for most deer hunters, HuntWise could be the right tool, if you can fit it into your budget. If you are considering HuntWise for game other than whitetails, a lot of the allure fades. 

Be sure to listen to The New Hunters Guide Podcast and check us out on YouTube. 

Till next time. God bless you, and go get em in the woods!

George Konetes Ph.D. – Founder and Host of the New Hunters Guide.

The New Hunters Guide is simply what George wishes he would have had when learning how to hunt; a single place to get practical hands on knowledge about different kinds of hunting, gear, strategy, and tips that can improve your comfort and fun factor in the woods.

Rage Hypodermic Crossbow Broadhead Review | Mechanical vs. Fixed Blade

The Rage Hypodermic Crossbow Broadhead is one of the greatest innovations in modern archery hunting in several areas. That said, it may not be perfect for everyone, but I’ve found it to be my favorite tool in my broadhead toolbox thus far. I just finished my fourth deer hunting season exclusively using these broadheads, and I have alot of insights to share.

I’ve seen plenty of reviews where people talk hypothetically and scientifically about these broadheads, quoting all the marketing materials or synthesizing other online reviews and it’s obvious they have never touched let alone shot one of these broadheads.

That isn’t going to be this review. This review is packed with information and insight that the cookie cutter reviews can’t provide. I have four sets of antlers that these broadheads have brought home for me, not to mention some does the Rage’s have put in my freezer as well. And I have bought every single broadhead with my own money, but I do earn from qualifying purchases using links in this review. 

How They Work

The rage hypodermics are a mechanical broadhead, which means they fold up neatly for storage and shooting. But upon impact, the cutting blades expand outward to drastically increase the cutting diameter. One some models the blades are held in place by a collar, other models have no collar, more on that later.

These broadheads are simple to work with, safe to handle, and thus far in my experience, 100% reliable. The goal of mechanical broadheads is to provide a larger cutting diameter than is feasible with fixed blade broadheads while being more aerodynamic and accurate. Do they achieve this goal? In short, yes. 

Specs

  • 2-Blade Crossbow Broadhead
  • 100 Grain or 125 Grain
  • Hybrid Hypodermic Tip
  • Stainless Steel Hypodermic Ferrule
  • .035″ Blade Thickness
  • 2 ” Cutting Diameter
  • High Energy SHOCK COLLAR™ or No Collar Blade Lock
  • 3 per Package
  • Replacement Blades Available

If you are new to crossbow hunting, here is a podcast episode I did on How To Pick Your First Crossbow For Deer Hunting. 

Massive Effectiveness – Hype or Truth?

Rage boasts a lot of big colorful words to describe how impressively effective these crossbow broadheads are, along with the non-crossbow versions. Do they live up to that hype though? Are they really that devastating on deer?  My experience with archery hunting is that if you hit a deer in an ideal location, that deer is going to die. And if you hit it in a bad location, it may or may not die, and you may or may not recover it. Shot placement is everything to achieve a quick humane kill.

These hypodermic crossbow broadheads are no exception to that simple truth. I have botched a shot and lost a deer. But if the hunter can do their part and place the shot in a good spot, these things are amazing. The stories below illustrate that quite well. 

Cast Studies Of How They Really Work

The first shot I took with a Rage Hypodermic Crossbow Broadhead dropped the deer to the ground, in place, at 30 yards. The deer couldn’t go five feet. The wound was so impressive, and deer bled out so much and so quickly that it was a little bit nauseating to me.  I kid you not. The deer was unconscious within seconds, it dropped right to the ground and couldn’t get back up.  I was immediately sold on these broadheads. They were unbelievably effective. 

The second deer I shot was a nice buck walking at 23 yards. I watched it run less than 50 yards and pile up right in front of me. This shot was not as gruesome as the first, but it was impressively effective.  The deer was not conscious for more than a few seconds.

The next buck I shot ran 75 yards or so but left such a large blood trail that I could not believe there was any blood left in the deer by the time I found it. Far more blood than with any rifle kill I’ve had on a deer.  Again, a very fast and humane kill.

I could go on and on, but the bottom line is this. Every deer where I was even close to a vital area was on the ground within seconds and didn’t go more than that one at 75 yards. The blood trails were always easy to follow when I didn’t watch the deer go down. Sometimes the blood trails were excessive and other times they were average. But each time the deer went down fast, humanely, with minimal suffering and was easily recovered. 

How Well Do They Penetrate?

When it comes to arrows, everyone wants a pass-through shot, myself included. A pass-through double lung shot will quickly kill a deer 100% of the time and provide the most trackable blood with the largest margin of error. Plus, a pass through arrow is most easily recovered and reused. These Rage broadheads have not always given me a clean passthrough shot though.

I would say 60% of the time the arrow has gone through the deer and cleanly come out the other side. The other 40% of the time the arrow has poked through the other side of the deer to some degree but remained lodged in the deer. I hate this, because almost every single time the arrow has been broken, usually sheared off when the deer runs next to a tree.

However, the effectiveness of the broadhead has not diminished at all in these situations. The deer do not run any further or bleed any less. The broadhead does its damage, its game over every single time. What keeps the arrow from cleanly leaving the deer? I cannot tell. These things tend to go right through rib bone like nothing. I am wondering if the bow I’ve been using needs the string replaced and is losing some velocity. But the bottom line is a 100% fast kill rate on all deer shot anywhere close to a vital area. 

Do They Always Work?

Yes, so far. I have not had one fail to deploy, deploy improperly, or malfunction in any way. I shoot, the broadhead opens, and the deer quickly expires. I have full confidence that these are going to work every time. I’ve shot deer as far as 40 yards and have never had an issue with the broadheads. They just work. As they should. 

Can They Pass Through Bone?

I hate this question, because it is not often asked responsibly. No archery hunter should ever fire into the shoulder or at any bone other than a rib. It is irresponsible and unethical. No broadhead, no matter what it’s made of, fixed, mechanical, titanium, or weighing 600 grains can reliability pass through the thickest part of the shoulder of a gull grown deer, let alone with enough power to humanely kill the deer. Often the arrow will deflect, sometimes it will bounce off, if it goes through its trajectory can be greatly altered. It is a not a shot hunters should take or try to find special equipment for. Stop it.

Stop chasing this foolhardy idea, it is wounding too many deer. Never aim for hard bone and don’t try to build a heavy arrow setup that gives you a better change of taking the deer if you do. You will focus on the wrong things and botch more shots because of it. These broadheads and all broadheads will do what they are designed to do, go through both lungs and kill a deer quickly. If you want to shoot through the shoulder, then use a rifle. For more, check out my podcast episode Heavy Arrows Vs. Fast Arrows For Deer Hunting.

Can You Shoot Through Mesh In Ground Blinds?

This is a hotly contested subject! Shooting through the mesh of a ground blind with any broadhead, let alone a mechanical broadhead like the Rage Hypodermic is greatly debated. Rather than quoting arguments and articles, I’ll just tell you the truth. It works, its fine, and it works great. 80% of the deer I’ve shot with these have been from ground blinds and through the mesh. I have not noticed any difference whatsoever of shots going through the mesh vs. those not through the message. It’s a non-issue.

I believe the benefits of the mesh to conceal the hunter outweigh any theoretical cons about shooting through mesh. It does not seem to impact the velocity, range, accuracy, or penetration of the broadheads. And no, they do not deploy when shooting through the mesh. This debate is waged largely by people who have no experience. I can tell you first-hand, the mesh hasn’t hurt me one bit.

Collar vs. No Collar

Rage makes a version of the Hypodermic crossbow broadheads with a collar and without a collar. If you are unfamiliar, the collar is just a little plastic ring that holds the blades in place. When the broadheads hit the deer, the collar snaps off and the blades open. The no collar version uses a newer mechanical mechanism to replace the collar. 

There is alot of debate about broadheads that use a collar being inferior because the collar requires “alot of energy” to break and that energy is not able to go into the deer. I talked to Rage about this very point at length, and according to them, the people who make the broadheads, this is completely untrue. The amount of energy required to break a collar is inconsequential.

People accidently snap collars when brush touches the broadhead in a quiver, which is one of the main reasons they created the no collar version. The collar and the no collar broadheads perform almost identically. 

Keep in mind, it is in their best interest to push the no collar models because they cost more. So, to say the cheaper and older collared models have the same performance is just plain honesty. I personally prefer the collar version because it is cheaper than the no-collar. 

The Best Part – They Fly Like Field Tips

Hands down, the best feature of the Rage Hypodermic Crossbow Broadhead is that they fly just like a field tip. I can practice with field tips as much as I want, and then put on a broadhead and will have the same accuracy at every range that the field tip has. This means I only need to practice with one set of ranges. I am able to hit what and where I am aiming much more easily. 

Because shot placement matters more than anything else and everything else when it comes to deer hunting. And these broadheads help me place my shots better. That is the number one reason I like them. The better the hit, the cleaner the kill, the faster you can recover the deer and the better quality the meat. Here is a short video I did about how long to wait to recover a wounded deer from two different perspectives.

Can You Re-Use Them?

People sometimes also say the no collar version of the broadheads is better than the collar version because you won’t run out of collars. Well, neither of these broadheads are very re-usable. They are essentially a one-shot tool. The arrows you can easily re-use, the broadheads rarely are. Rage does make replacement blades you can swap out, so if you do that and sharpen the point of the arrow and nothing is bent, you could re-use them.

But for the trouble and cost, I just throw on a new broadhead every time so I can have peace of mind than I am at 100% for the next deer.  I do save my used broadheads that are still in good shape for small game or even turkey hunting. I asked Rage directly if the broadheads were typically single use items and they agreed that they are. 

Mechanical vs. Fixed Blade Broadheads

I will not go into the same level of detail describing any specific fixed blade broadheads, but I want to mention the general pros and cons of them. The biggest three benefits that fixed blade broadheads have are less complexity, better able to break through bone, and are more easily re-usable. The cons are that they often drop faster or fly different than field tips, may have less range, and do less damage to the deer.

For me, and only me, I value the mechanical broadheads much higher than fixed blade versions. I prize the ability to accurately hit the deer above everything else, and the Rage’s excel in this area. I have not seen any reliability issue with the Rage’s despite their greater complexity, and I would not likely take the time to straighten and re-sharpen fixed blade broadheads after use anyway, so they would still be single use items for me. In terms of ability to “smash through bone”, you shouldn’t be doing anyway, as I noted previously. 

So, for me, it is no contest. Accuracy trumps everything and being able to more speedily dispatch a well hit deer trumps any theoretical potential to break through bones I shouldn’t be aiming at.  You may have different priorities and ways to rate the value of these tools for your use. Always use what fits YOU best. 

The Cheapest Way To Get Them

I have found the most cost effective way to buy the Rage Hypodermic Crossbow Broadheads with a collar and without a collar is from Amazon. The prices fluctuate throughout the year but when they are low, especially for the version with a collar they can be very inexpensive. Always be on the lookout for good deals though. You never know where you might find a great price. I will buy them anytime during the year to keep my stock up to an acceptable level.

Conclusion & Recommendations

Are the Rage Hypodermic Crossbow Broadheads the best option on the market? I can’t say that. There are lots of other options I have yet to test. But of everything I have put my hands on, these are thus far the best tool I’ve come across. Why? I can hit what I’m aiming at better than anything else, they work every time, and they do all that a broadhead can do to bring down a deer fast and humanely. So I give them top marks.

Be sure to listen to The New Hunters Guide Podcast and check us out on YouTube. 

Till next time. God bless you, and go get em in the woods!

George Konetes Ph.D. – Founder and Host of the New Hunters Guide.

The New Hunters Guide is simply what George wishes he would have had when learning how to hunt; a single place to get practical hands on knowledge about different kinds of hunting, gear, strategy, and tips that can improve your comfort and fun factor in the woods.

EP226.5 Top 5 Deer Hunting Tips For Gun Season

Hunting deer during the rifle season should be easier and simpler than it is, but there are two big things that complicate it. On this episode I share tips and strategies to overcome the big hurdles of the gun season and help you become one of the 20% of hunters that take 80% of the deer.

One of the challenges of rifle season is natural, it is habit and habitat change. This time of year cover has become sparse, feeding and bedding patterns are in flux, and deer find fewer places to hide and eat. They are more alert and have fewer places they can be secure. Combine this will the end of the rut and whitetail bucks are tired, less active, and more focused on resting.

The bigger challenge however is the orange army. The woods fill with hunters, deer are overrun, pushed around, shot at, spooked, and disrupted.  Their paranoia is amplified and very quickly they will find themselves moving less and less, waiting for the safety of darkness. There is nothing we can do to stop this. But we can account for it, and even us it to our advantage.

Listen to the podcast episode to hear the 5 tips for overcoming these challenges to be successful hunting dear in the gun season. 

EP226 How Duck Hunting Changes As The Season Progresses

As the seasons progress so does duck hunting, in fact each period of the duck season requires different strategies and focus points to be as effective as possible. On this episode I talk about the different phases of the duck season and what is unique about hunting during each of them.

Duck season can be divided into three phases in many states.

  1. Early Season – This is when things are warm and green. You are primarily hunting local ducks or early migrators.
  2. Core Season – This is what you often see on TV, the migration is on, and birds are flying through on a regular basis looking for places to stop and rest.
  3. Late Season – The water is freezing up and ducks become more and more concentrated on open water.

Each phase of the season requires unique strategies to get the most out of it.

Listen to the episode for all of the details.

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